Sunday, 2 September 2018

Apple iPod Touch 4th Generation – Disassembling procedure

iPod Touch 4th Generation – Disassembling procedure – How to remove and replace the display
 Apple iPod Touch: DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 
The iPod Touch 4th Generation front panel is attached to the rear case by adhesive. The use of a heat gun to soften the adhesive is highly recommended. With the heat gun set on "low", begin heating the lower portion of the Touch near the home button. t is suggested to heat the desired portion in a circular motion pattern to evenly dissipate the amount of heat throughout the device.
Beware, as the Touch will be very hot. It may be helpful to hold it with a towel while prying. Insert the edge of an iPod opening tool between the front glass panel and the plastic bezel near the home button. Do not try to pry between the plastic bezel and the steel rear case. Pry the bottom edge of the front panel upward, being careful not to bend the glass excessively. If it is too difficult to pry up the front panel assembly, reheat it and try again.
When there is enough room to grab the bottom edge of the front panel, lift it away from the body of the Touch to peel up the adhesive along its left and right edges. If the adhesive is too difficult to separate, use a heat gun to soften it before proceeding.
Due to the construction of the 4th generation Touch, the digitizer cable cannot be disconnected until the logic board is removed. Use extreme caution when handling the front panel assembly, as it is attached to the rest of the Touch by the very delicate digitizer cable. Also, the display data cable is very short and is connected to the logic board near the top of the front panel assembly. If it does not become disconnected while freeing the top edge of the front panel assembly, be sure to disconnect it with an iPod opening tool before rotating the front panel assembly out of the Touch. Carefully pull the top of the front panel assembly away from the adhesive holding it to the Touch, minding the short digitizer cable connecting the two components.
Remove the following eight Phillips #00 screws:
One 3.5 mm Phillips screw
Two 3.0 mm Phillips screws
One 2.3 mm Phillips screw
One 2.4 mm Phillips screw
Three 2.0 mm Phillips screws
Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to pry the thin steel cover up from the rear-facing camera. Note the small spring located near the bezel next to the camera (highlighted in yellow). Remove the steel cover from the iPod.
Insert the edge of an iPod opening tool under the steel mid plate near the bottom left corner of the Touch. Pry upward to separate the plate from the adhesive securing it to the plastic inner case. If the plate is still attached to the logic board re-warm the area to loosen the adhesive, then separate the plate from the logic board using the opening tool Use extreme care, the speaker is under the area shown in photo. It is connected with very thin and short wires. There is a very thin ribbon cable here that connects the volume and power buttons to the logic board. Try to work around this area like shown so not to rip the cable. Be sure to hold down this cable when lifting the plate. It could stick to the plate due to residual glue. It is extremely fragile.
This cable will tear very easily if you are not careful.
There is also adhesive under the area shown in red.
Slightly tilt the steel mid plane to dislodge it from the rear case. Be careful not to tear the piece of copper tape connecting the rear-facing camera to the steel mid plane. Lift the steel mid plane up off the rear case and peel off the piece of copper tape stuck to the rear-facing camera.
Remove the three screws near the top edge of the logic board:
One 2.0 mm Phillips screw
Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws
Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to gently pry, but not remove, the rear-facing camera away from the rear case. Do not attempt to remove the rear facing camera yet.
Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the edge of the logic board next to the battery enough to grab it with your other hand. Do not excessively bend the logic board, as it is very thin and fragile. Be very careful not to lift too much as the volume control ribbon cable is still connected and will tear very easily. While gently lifting the logic board with one hand, use an iPod opening tool to lift the logic board near the copper tape at the logic board's top edge. The logic board will be lifted adequately when the last display assembly connector has cleared the top edge of the rear case.
Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to begin peeling the loop of copper tape wrapped around the connector near the center of the top edge of the logic board. Continue peeling the tape until it is free from the logic board. Using a pair of tweezers to peel the tape greatly simplifies the task if you've got them.
Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board. Remove the front panel assembly from the Touch. If you are installing a new display assembly, you will want to replace the old adhesive with new adhesive. Remove as much of the old adhesive as you can and then apply new adhesive strips to the appropriate places.
You will also need to transfer the metal plate that sits over the front camera and sensor windows. You can do this using a heat gun or hair dryer.
After you have reassembled your device, it is common to get a white screen when powering it up for the first time. All you have to do is a soft reset and that should fix it. This is accomplished by holding down the power button and the home button until it restarts, or running the battery all the way down until it turns off. Double check that the ribbon cable is not pinched between the LCD and the metal plate. Fold it back on itself so that it doesn't get pinched. If the ribbon cable is pinched, you may get a white screen that cannot be fixed because the traces on the ribbon cable have been damaged.



Tuesday, 28 August 2018

Apple MacBook Pro 13 – How to replace Hard drive


Apple MacBook Pro 13 – How to replace Hard drive of Apple MacBook Pro 13 – How to remove the rear cover – How to replace the laptop – How to install OS on new Hard drive – How to clone old drive
Apple MacBook Pro 13:  hard drive replacement procedure 
Remove the following ten screws:
Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screwsThree 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws
Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.
Remove the lower case.
Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board. It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.
Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.
Remove the two Phillips screws securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case. These screws will remain attached to the hard drive bracket.
Remove the hard drive bracket. The hard drive bracket may be firmly seated against the upper case.
Use the attached pull tab to lift the hard drive out of the upper case. Don't try to completely remove the hard drive just yet. It is still attached to the hard drive cable.
Pull the hard drive cable away from the body of the hard drive.
Remove the hard drive.
Remove the four 6.0 mm T6 Torx hard drive retaining posts from the sides of the hard drive.
Transfer the hard drive retaining posts to your new hard drive.
If desired, transfer the pull tab over to your new hard drive.
Install operating system and software from scratch
Follow these instructions after physically installing your new hard drive.
# Insert an OS X installation disc into your optical drive.
# Start the computer up on the installation disc by holding down the “option” key while the computer boots.
# Select the installation disc from the menu.
# Select your language and wait for the installer to load.
# Select “Disk Utility” from the Utility drop down menu.
# Select your new hard drive from the left column in Disk Utility.
# Click on the “Erase” tab.
# Choose the Volume format (we recommend “Mac OS Extended (Journaled)”).
# Select a name for the drive.
# Click “Erase.”
# After erasing is done, quit Disk Utility.
# You may now continue with the OS X installation process. If the drive doesn’t show up as an available volume to install the OS onto, restarting the computer should fix the problem. 
Clone your existing hard drive
If you’re happy with your existing operating system installation and simply are upgrading your hard drive capacity, you can clone your existing hard drive to your new drive.
To clone a hard drive, you’ll need a way to connect two hard drives to your Mac. You’ll need to make sure you have an ATA enclosure (IF136-005) if you have a PowerBook or iBook, or a SATA enclosure (IF107-055) if you have a MacBook or MacBook Pro. After you’re done cloning the drive, you can put your old drive in the external enclosure and use it as a backup drive. You can also use an external USB or Firewire backup drive to clone your hard drive. However, in this situation you’ll need to first clone your existing drive to the external drive, and then clone the drive back to your new internal drive.
The following instructions assume you’ll be using an external Firewire enclosure for a laptop drive and SuperDuper. If you’re using a different setup, your installation process may be somewhat different.
# Install your new hard drive in the external Firewire enclosure.
# Connect the Firewire enclosure to your Mac.
# Open Disk Utility.
# Select your new hard drive from the left column in Disk Utility.
# Click on the “Erase” tab.
# Choose the Volume format (we recommend “Mac OS Extended (Journaled)”).
# Select a name for the drive.
# Click “Erase.”
# After erasing is done, quit Disk Utility.
# Your new hard drive should now appear on the computer’s desktop.
# Download and install SuperDuper!
# Open SuperDuper.
# Select your current hard drive in the dropdown menu labeled “Copy.”
# Select your new hard drive in the dropdown menu labeled “to.”
# Select “Backup – all files” in the dropdown menu labeled “using.”
# Click “Copy Now.”
# If prompted, provide your password.
# Wait for the drive to copy (this could take several hours if you have a lot on your hard drive already).
# After the copy is complete, quit SuperDuper.
# At this point, your new hard drive should be loaded with your existing software and ready to install; however, we recommend testing the software installation.
1 Restart the computer while holding down the “option” key.
2 Select your new hard drive from the menu.
3 Wait for the computer to boot up, then verify that everything looks right (make sure you’re actually booting up off the new drive).
4 Your new hard drive is now ready to be installed in your computer.
5 Remove your new hard drive from the external enclosure and install it in your computer.



Wednesday, 15 August 2018

Nokia Lumia 920 – Disassembling procedure

Nokia Lumia 920 – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the case – How to remove the battery – How to replace the USB port and microphone

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 
Remove the Bottom Screws
Make sure the phone is off.
Use the T5 screwdriver to remove the two 8.6mm long screws, located at the bottom of the phone. (Head size is 2.5mm)
Use the smallest Torx screwdriver or another small poking tool and push into the hole on the SIM card slot. The plastic SIM protective piece should pop out quite easily. Put that plastic piece aside.
Once both screws on the bottom are removed, and the plastic SIM protective piece is removed, gently push on the outside of the screen.
The screen should become separated using little force. And should like the pictures shown once complete.
This step may be easier to remove the battery first, but it is not mandatory.
Place the spudger tool or flat plastic tool on top of the ribbon cable to avoid damaging it when prying up on the metal clip.
Use a plastic opening tool, or gently use a small metal flat-head screwdriver to pry up the metal clip. (It is recommended to use a plastic tool; However, if the opening tool does not work or fit into the small opening underneath the clip, use the flat-head.)
Once the metal clip is removed, gently pry up on the ribbon cable connection, located underneath the metal clip you have just removed.
Removing the Battery
Prerequisite step: Back panel removal
Use the T4 torx screwdriver to remove the 3mm screw (diameter of the head is 1.5mm)
fastened to the metal clip, holding the battery in place.
Using the plastic opening tool, pry up on the metal clip holding the battery in place.
Completely remove the clip.
Use a plastic opening tool. Start on the right, and gently lift up on the copper strip.
You do not have to completely remove the copper strip, only enough so that the connection to the battery is visible.
Use a plastic opening tool or spudger, and gently lift up on the connective piece.
Use a plastic opening tool at the bottom of the battery and gently lift.
The battery should lift out easily.
Removing USB and Microphone
Prerequisite guides: Back panel removal, Battery removal
On the side where the volume buttons are, use a removing tool of some sort (Plastic tools may not work as well because the pieced are glued) and pry up the plastic strip encasing the volume, power, and camera buttons.
Be very gentle, these pieces are made of very thin plastic and may break easily.
After removing the thin plastic button cover, the buttons may fall out of place. That is okay. Just take them out and place them aside.
You may even use a screwdriver to pop them out of place, but it is not necessary.
To start, apply pressure downward on the plastic piece connected to the usb port as shown. While applying the downward pressure, apply pressure away from the USB port as well.
You want to pull the plastic piece away from the bottom of the phone.
Once you have one side clearly separated from the shell of the phone, put the screwdriver in the opening you have created and push the whole piece away from its shell.
Completely remove the plastic piece from the back panel shell.
Gently stick the screwdriver underneath the microphone as shown.
Lift gently until the microphone is out of its plastic casing.
The microphone will still be connected to the ribbon cable.
Like you did to the microphone, gently slide the screwdriver underneath the USB port.
Gently lift up to separate it from its plastic casing.

Sunday, 12 August 2018

HP ProBook 11 G1 - How to remove the top cover how to remove the keyboard – how to remove the HDD


HP ProBook 11 G1: disassembling procedure 
How to remove the Battery
Remove the battery:
1. Close the computer.
2. Turn the computer upside down with the front toward you.
3. Remove the two screw covers (1) that conceal the battery retention screws.
The battery screw covers are included in the Rubber Kit, spare part number 809868-001.
4. Loosen the two Phillips PM2.0×5.6 captive screws (2) that secure the battery to the computer.
5. Pivot the front edge of the battery (3) up and back until it rests at an angle.
6. Remove the battery (4).
How to remove the Bottom cover
Before removing the bottom cover, follow these steps:
1. Turn off the computer. If you are unsure whether the computer is off or in Hibernation, turn the computer on, and then shut it down through the operating system.
2. Disconnect the power from the computer by unplugging the power cord from the computer.
3. Disconnect all external devices from the computer.
4. Remove the battery
Remove the bottom cover:
1. Remove the following plugs that conceal the bottom cover screws:
(1) Four plugs in the corners of the computer
(2) Two plugs on the front edge of the computer
(3) Two plugs in the middle of the computer
The bottom cover screw covers are included in the Rubber Kit, spare part number 809868-001.
2. Remove the eight Torx8 T8M2.0×5.6 screws (4) that secure the bottom cover to the computer.
3. Remove the two Phillips PM2.0×3.7 broad head screws (5) that secure the bottom cover to the computer in the battery bay.
4. Use a case utility tool (1) or a similar thin, plastic tool to separate the bottom cover from the base enclosure.
5. Swing the front edge of the bottom cover (2) up and to the back until it separates from the base enclosure.
6. Remove the bottom cover (3).
How to remove the Hard drive
Before removing the hard drive, follow these steps:
1. Shut down the computer. If you are unsure whether the computer is off or in Hibernation, turn the computer on, and then shut it down through the operating system.
2. Disconnect all external devices connected to the computer.
3. Disconnect the power from the computer by first unplugging the power cord from the AC outlet and then unplugging the AC adapter from the computer.
4. Remove the battery
5. Remove the bottom cover
Remove the hard drive:
1. Remove the four Phillips PM2.5×5.8 screws (1) that secure the hard drive to the base enclosure.
2. Slide the hard drive (2) forward until it disconnects from the system board.
3. Remove the hard drive (3).
How to remove the Solid-state drive
Before removing the hard drive, follow these steps:
1. Shut down the computer. If you are unsure whether the computer is off or in Hibernation, turn the computer on, and then shut it down through the operating system.
2. Disconnect all external devices connected to the computer.
3. Disconnect the power from the computer by first unplugging the power cord from the AC outlet and then unplugging the AC adapter from the computer.
4. Remove the battery
5. Remove the bottom cover
Remove the solid-state drive:
1. Remove the Phillips PM2.0×3.7 broad head screw (1) that secures the solid-state drive to the solid state drive tray. (The solid-state drive tilts up.)
2. Remove the solid-state drive (2) by pulling it away from the slot at an angle.
3. If it is necessary to replace the solid-state drive tray, remove the four Phillips PM3.0×4.1 screws (1) that secure the solid-state drive tray to the base enclosure.
4. Slide the solid-state drive tray (2) forward until it disconnects from the system board.
5. Remove the solid-state drive tray (3).
The solid-state drive tray and screws are included in the Solid-State Drive Hardware Kit, spare part number 809859-001.
How to remove the Keyboard/top cover
Before removing the keyboard/top cover, follow these steps:
1. Turn off the computer. If you are unsure whether the computer is off or in Hibernation, turn the computer on, and then shut it down through the operating system.
2. Disconnect the power from the computer by unplugging the power cord from the computer.
3. Disconnect all external devices from the computer.
4. Remove the battery
5. Remove the bottom cover
6. Remove the hard drive
Remove the keyboard/top cover:
1. Release the ZIF connector (1) to which the keyboard cable is attached, and then disconnect the keyboard cable from the system board.
2. Release the ZIF connector (2) to which the TouchPad button board cable is attached, and then disconnect the TouchPad button board cable from the system board.
3. Remove the following screws that secure the keyboard/top cover to the base enclosure:
(1) One Phillips PM2.0×3.7 screw on the front edge of the keyboard/top cover
(2) One Phillips PM2.0×3.7 broad head screw in the hard drive bay
(3) Six Phillips PM2.0×5.6 screws
(4) Two Phillips PM2.5×8.6 screws on the display hinges
4. Turn the computer right side up with the front toward you.
5. Open the computer as far as it will open.
6. Lift the front edge (1) of the keyboard/top cover until it separates from the front edge of the base enclosure.
7. Release the ZIF connector (2) to which the power button board cable is attached, and then disconnect the power button board cable from the system board.
8. Remove the keyboard/top cover (3).

Thursday, 9 August 2018

Apple iPod Classic – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the case – How to replace the battery


Apple iPod Classic: disassembling procedure 
Apple designed their iPods to be very difficult to take apart without destroying major components. Because of the metal faceplate, the metal backing, and the 13 (yes, 13) metal clips holding the case together, this is one of the toughest Pods to disassemble. Proceed with caution and the warning that you may significantly damage your iPod beyond its present condition. Also, you may want a few extra pairs of plastic
opening tools during installation, as they are easy to ruin when opening the iPod. Have fun! Before opening your iPod, ensure that the hold switch is in the locked position.
Opening this iPod is challenging. Don't get discouraged if it takes you a few tries before the iPod is opened. One thing to notice is the angle of the plastic opening tool's tip while inserting it into the iPod. Ideally, the angle should be as vertical as possible while still clearing the edge of the rear panel. Insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod.
Insert another plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod, leaving at least 1.5 inches of space between the two tools.
At an angle, carefully insert a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the seam between the two opening tools. There are thin metal rails running along the inside of the rear panel, so take great care when inserting the putty knife.
Once the putty knife has cleared the lip of the rear panel, pivot the putty knife so that it is vertical, and carefully (but firmly) wiggle it straight down into the gap between the opening tools.
Push with your fingers on the rear panel behind the putty knife to minimize bending. Slowly flex the putty knife, as shown in the picture, to ensure that most of the metal tabs on this side of the iPod are disengaged. The theory behind this method is, rather than attempting to not bend the rear panel at all, to bend it in a favorable manner that allows you to easily restore it later. Therefore, any bend in the sides of the rear panel should be drawing the lip of the rear panel away from the iPod, rather than pushing out on the curved surface. This method also disengages as many of the side clips as possible.
Remove the putty knife from the iPod and reinsert it closer to the corner of the iPod, using the same wiggle method as before.
If at all possible, do not bend the corner of the rear panel.
Between the lock slider and headphone jack, insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod. You may find it easier to carefully flex the putty knife downward in order to create more of a gap for the opening tool, but be sure not to bend the corner of the rear panel!
Near the center of the display, carefully insert a metal spudger into the gap created by the plastic opening tool. It is easy to create a noticeable bump in the rear panel here that is difficult to repair. When prying the tab free, try to have the metal spudger pivot on the edge of the rear panel rather than bending the rear panel outward.
Using the metal spudger, disengage the single clip on the top of the iPod.
Near the other top corner, insert an opening tool into the seam between he front and back of the iPod
On the other side, insert an opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod. You may find it easier to angle the opening tool stuck in the top corner in order to create a sufficient gap.
Remove the plastic opening tool from the top corner and insert it into the seam between the front and back of the iPod, leaving at least 1.5 inches of space between the two tools (as done on the other side).At an angle, carefully insert a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the seam between the two opening tools. Again, there are thin metal rails running along the inside of the rear panel, so take great care when inserting the putty knife. Once the putty knife has cleared the lip of the rear panel, angle the putty knife so that it is vertical, and carefully (but firmly) wiggle it straight down into the iPod via the gap between the plastic opening tools. Push with your fingers on the rear panel behind the putty knife to minimize bending. Ever so slightly flex the putty knife to ensure that most of the metal tabs on this side of the iPod are disengaged.
The metal clips near the corners are notorious for tenaciously gripping the front panel. It is necessary to disengage these clips in order to open the iPod. Carefully insert a metal spudger into the area near the stubborn metal clip.
Gently wiggle the metal spudger down so that it is all the way in the rear panel.
Gently begin to disengage the clip from the front panel. It is easy to create a noticeable bump in the rear panel here that is difficult to repair. When prying the tab free, try to have the metal spudger pivot on the edge of the rear panel rather than bending the rear panel outward.
Continue to push up on the front panel with the metal spudger until the metal clip releases.
There are two ribbon cables connecting the rear panel to the rest of the iPod. In the following step, be careful not to damage these ribbon cables. Grasp the front panel assembly with one hand and the rear panel with the other. Take a deep breath! Gently (GENTLY) disengage the remaining clips on the rear panel by pulling the tops of the front and rear panels away from each other (think of the bottom of the iPod as a hinge), taking great care not to damage the ribbon cables holding the two halves together.
Use a spudger to slide up the connector holding the orange battery ribbon in place. You only need to lift the locking bar up about 2 mm to free the cable. Slide the orange battery ribbon out of its connector.
Place the rear panel next to the iPod, being careful not to strain the orange headphone jack cable.
Lift the hard drive up with one hand so you can access the headphone jack ribbon beneath. Use a spudger to flip up the plastic tab holding the headphone jack ribbon in place. The tab will rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable. Slide the orange headphone jack ribbon out of its connector. The rear panel is now free from the iPod.
Now to repair the damage caused by liberating the internal parts of the iPod Classic! It is highly likely that at least one of the metal clips in the lower case has been bent upward. These clips must all be pointing downward in order to reinstall the rear panel.
Take the broad, flat side of the metal spudger and push the clip down, taking care not to tear the thin metal rail from the rear panel. Alternatively a pair of flat pin nosed pliers can be used to reduce risk of slipping and damaging the headphone jack. Be careful not to damage any of the headphone jack parts while shaping these clips!
On a clean, hard surface, lay the rear panel on its side. Carefully but firmly push down on it, rolling the entire lip side back into its proper spot. It may be necessary to do this multiple times in order to achieve optimal straightness on the sides. It is better to have the edges of the case pushed in slightly too far rather than not far enough, because the reseating of the front panel will bend the rear panel into its correct alignment. Now that the rear panel is back to a beautiful condition, you can move on to repairing the iPod!
The battery is attached to the rear panel with adhesive. Be careful not to tear the orange headphone jack or hold button ribbon cables when removing the battery. Use a spudger to lift the battery and the attached orange cable out of the iPod. If you have a 160 GB iPod, the battery will be thicker than the one pictured.

Monday, 6 August 2018

Apple MacBook - Key replacement procedure – How to replace the Key of apple macBook – macBook pro – MacBook air – iBook


There are several types of Apple laptops and therefore a lot of different keycaps. Luckily, most of the keys work the same way across all of the Powerbook, iBook, and Macbook models.
Keys get a lot of punishment, and sooner or later they are destined to have problems. The letter or symbol can get rubbed off, they can get sticky from a spill, and even get lost. Most companies will tell you you need a new keyboard, but in most cases, you just need to replace the single key and this can save you a lot of money. Powerbookmedic.com offers keys for this very purpose.
Key Components
There are two parts to every key. The keycap itself and the scissor mechanism
Changing out a key
There are two parts to a keyboard key on an Apple keyboard. The first piece is the keycap which is the part that actually has the print on it. The second piece is the scissor mechanism. Technically, the scissor mechanism is two parts connected together, but if ordered from our, store they should already be together. There are some abnormal keys which will be discussed in the following section. The first step is going to be to remove the old key if it is still there. To remove the key, simply lift the keycap from one of the corners and gently pull up until it pops off. Depending how well it comes off, it may take the scissor mechanism with the key, or you may need to remove the scissors from the keyboard afterwards. As you can see in the pictures to the left, the keycap has been removed and we have the scissor mechanism remaining. The scissors are held on by two prongs. You can either squeeze the scissor together or use a flat tool as pictured to the right to release each prong. Once each prong is released, the key should be free as pictured in the second picture to the right. It is now only held in by the small silver hook. You can just move the key towards yourself to get it out from underneath the hook. You are now ready to replace the key. To accomplish this, simply repeat the procedure in reverse. You will need to get the scissors separated from the keycap if they are not already. This can be done by flipping the keycap over and pulling off the scissors. Then, slide the scissors underneath the hook. Note: The best way to judge which side of the scissors faces upwards is to see which way the inner scissor swings. It needs to swing down. Once the scissors are under the hook, squeeze the key from the sides and slide the pegs into the holes to lock it in place. Once the scissor is in properly, get the keycap and simply place it directly on top of the scissors and press down. It should snap in place. Once snapped in, test it to make sure it is springing back up properly. If it is not, then try again and make sure everything is where it is supposed to be. Note: The rubber nub underneath the key is what does the spring action, so make sure it is present on the keyboard and sticking straight up. If the nub is not present, a new keyboard will be required.
Metal Scissor Keys
Some model laptops had two different keyboards produced during their product line. One type was the normal plastic scissor type that is more commonly found on Apple keyboards. The other type used metal scissor mechanisms instead of plastic ones. These work a little differently, so an explanation on installing these is necessary. As pictured to the left, you can see the keycap with the metal scissor in the top picture. There are two parts to the scissor. One part is the larger outer scissor that goes around the edge of the keycap and the second is seen in the second image to the left which will be the smaller inner scissor. To remove the old scissor (if needed, but usually not) just use your fingers or a flat tool and slightly bend the metal scissor on the keyboard to release it from the hole as seen in the second picture to the left. Note: The outer scissor should remain on the keycap.
Once the old keycap and scissor mechanism are removed you can install the new one. Install the inner scissor first. Install it with the hooks pointing to the right and slightly bend the scissor in order to fit the hooks into the holes. Get the keycap and make sure the outer scissor is properly installed on the keycap as pictured in the first image to the left. The scissor should just snap in to the grooves on the bottom side of the keycap. You can then slide the hooks on the outer scissor into their respective holes on the keyboard. Next, sit the keycap straight up on the keyboard and press
down to snap it in place. After installing the key, test the key to make sure it is working properly. If not, check to make sure the scissors are installed properly and the rubber nub is working normally.
Replacing Longer Keys
Some of the longer keys on a keyboard have a slightly different design than the other keys we have discussed so far. Those keys have a metal stabilizer bar on the keycap and a different plastic mechanism for the keyboard. As seen in the first picture to the right, the metal bar attaches to the bottom of the key by lining it up with the grooves in the keycap. The scissor mechanism is the large plastic piece shown in the middle picture. This piece has several plastic pegs that need to be snapped in correctly, similar to the way a normal plastic mechanism would snap into place. One side should have two pegs for each side. This will be for the top of the scissor. Note: The inner scissor mechanism should swing downward if you have it upright. Place the mechanism without the keycap on the keyboard and slightly bend it to get it snapped into the appropriate holes for the pegs on the top of the scissors. Once in, you will need to take the keycap with the metal bar and insert that bar into the holes on the sides of the key area. Once in place, you can flip the key upright and snap it into place. This key can be tricky, so it may take a few attempts before you get the hang of it.
Once it is installed, test it to make sure it works properly and is getting the right spring action. If it isn’t working properly, pull the keycap back off and make sure all of the pegs are correctly locked in place on the keyboard

Wednesday, 1 August 2018

HP SlateBook 14 – Disassembling procedure


How to remove the top cover - how to remove the keyboard – How to remove the battery
HP SlateBook 14 DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 
How to remove Computer feet
Before replacing the computer feet, follow these steps:
1. Turn off the computer. If you are unsure whether the computer is off or in Hibernation, turn the computer on, and then shut it down through the operating system.
2. Disconnect the power from the computer by unplugging the power cord from the computer.
3. Disconnect all external devices from the computer.
Remove the computer feet:
1. Close the computer.
2. Turn the computer upside down with the front toward you.
3. Remove the 4 rubber feet
How to remove Keyboard/top cover
Before replacing the keyboard/top cover, follow these steps:
1. Turn off the computer. If you are unsure whether the computer is off or in Hibernation, turn the computer on, and then shut it down through the operating system.
2. Disconnect the power from the computer by unplugging the power cord from the computer.
3. Disconnect all external devices from the computer.
Remove the keyboard/top cover:
1. Close the computer.
2. Turn the computer upside down with the front toward you.
3. Remove the rear rubber feet (1).
4. Remove the oblong rubber screw covers (2).
5. Remove the round rubber screw cover (3)
6. Remove the thirteen Phillips PM1.9×5.7 screws that secure the keyboard/top cover to the base enclosure.
7. Turn the computer right side up.
8. Open the computer as far as it will open.
9. Detach the front edge of the keyboard/top cover (1) from the base enclosure.
10. Lift the keyboard/top cover (2) until it rests at an angle.
11. Disconnect the battery cable (3) from the system board.
12. Release the zero insertion force (ZIF) connector (4) to which the power button board cable is attached, and then disconnect the power button board cable from the system board.
13. Release the ZIF connector (5) to which the keyboard cable is attached, and then disconnect the keyboard cable from the system board.
14. Release the ZIF connector (6) to which the TouchPad board cable is attached, and then disconnect the TouchPad board cable from the system board.
15. Remove the keyboard/top cover (7) by sliding it away from the computer at an angle.
How to remove TouchPad
Before replacing the TouchPad, follow these steps:
1. Turn off the computer. If you are unsure whether the computer is off or in Hibernation, turn the computer on, and then shut it down through the operating system.
2. Disconnect the power from the computer by unplugging the power cord from the computer.
3. Disconnect all external devices from the computer.
4. Remove the keyboard/top cover
Remove the TouchPad:
1. Turn the keyboard/top cover upside down with the front toward you.
2. Remove the two Phillips PM1.9×2.1 broad head screws (1) that secure the TouchPad to the keyboard/top cover.
3. Press on the tab (2) on the back of the TouchPad to release the ToucPad from the keyboard/ top cover.
4. Remove the TouchPad (4).
How to remove USB board
Before replacing the USB board, follow these steps:
1. Turn off the computer. If you are unsure whether the computer is off or in Hibernation, turn the computer on, and then shut it down through the operating system.
2. Disconnect the power from the computer by unplugging the power cord from the computer.
3. Disconnect all external devices from the computer.
4. Remove the keyboard/top cover
Remove the USB board:
1. Release the ZIF connector (1) to which the USB board cable is attached, and then disconnect the
USB board cable from the system board.
2. Detach the USB board cable (2) from the battery. (The USB board cable battery is attached to the battery with double-sided adhesive.)
3. Remove the two Phillips PM1.9×2.1 broad head screws (3) that secure the USB board to the base enclosure.
4. Remove the USB board (4) and cable.
How to remove Battery
Before replacing the battery, follow these steps:
1. Turn off the computer. If you are unsure whether the computer is off or in Hibernation, turn the computer on, and then shut it down through the operating system.
2. Disconnect the power from the computer by unplugging the power cord from the computer.
3. Disconnect all external devices from the computer.
4. Remove the keyboard/top cover
Remove the battery:
1. Remove the eight Phillips PM1.9×2.8 screws (1) that secure the battery to the base enclosure.
2. Detach the USB board cable (2) from the battery. (The USB board cable battery is attached to the battery with double-sided adhesive.)
3. Lift the front edge of the battery (3) until it rests at an angle.
4. Remove the battery (4) by sliding it up and forward at an angle
5. Remove the battery.
How to remove Display assembly
Before replacing the display assembly, follow these steps:
1. Turn off the computer. If you are unsure whether the computer is off or in Hibernation, turn the computer on, and then shut it down through the operating system.
2. Disconnect the power from the computer by unplugging the power cord from the computer.
3. Disconnect all external devices from the computer.
4. Remove the keyboard/top cover
Remove the display assembly:
1. Disconnect the display panel cable (1) from the system board.
2. Disconnect the WLAN antenna cable (2) from the terminal on the WLAN module.
3. Release the WLAN antenna cable from the clip (3) built into the base enclosure.
4. Remove the two Phillips PM1.9×2.8 screws (4) that secure the display assembly system board to the base enclosure.
5. Remove the display assembly (5)

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