Fire HDX 8.9 – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the mother board

Ensure that the device is turned off.
Holding the device firmly, wedge a plastic opening tool between the speaker cover and the device.
Then pry up to separate it from the device.
Then begin to firmly pry up the plastic cover with the plastic opening tool.
The backing is connected with adhesive so force may be necessary.
Be careful to not damage the plastic in any way.
Once you can fit your finger under the plastic cover, begin to slide your finger down the cover while simultaneously prying up.

Once you reach the end of the plastic cover you should be able to completely remove it from the device.

Use a T5 screwdriver to remove the four 3.5 mm T5 screws at the top of the device, where the black plastic trim was located.

Release the two clear plastic clips at the top of the device near the speaker using the spudger.

Simply push down the clip with the tip of the spudger.
Push lightly to ensure that the clips aren't damaged.

Use a plastic opening tool to wedge between the screen and the device, while simultaneously holding the clip open from step 4.

Pry the screen very gently to avoid cracking the glass
Start to remove the screen from where the black plastic trim was removed and work the tool around the sides of the device. You will here small pops from the clips on the sides being released.
The Amazon Fire can now be opened with the two flex cables at the base still connected

Now we have to remove the two flex cables attached to both the screen assembly and body of the device.

The cable addressed in step 8 is highlighted in orange.

First turn the device 90 degrees counterclockwise.

Wedge a spudger or plastic opening tool under the black flap of the larger connector and lift up.
Pull the belt out of the connector and lift it up.

Turn the device 180 degrees.

Repeat step 7 for the smaller flex cable connection.

Your screen assembly has now been removed and can be replaced.

Orient the device by rotating the body 90 degrees clockwise.

Peel off the black tape covering the main battery connection.

Use the spudger to lift up and release the battery connector.

Locate the circular gold plug to the left of the battery connection.

Use the spudger to lift this up from the motherboard.

Now use the plastic opening tool to lift up the black flap directly above the gold plug.

Pull the flex cable out.
This is the procedure that will be followed for all flex cables indicated.

Locate the third clip at the top center of the device, up from the first battery connector.

Follow the same procedure from the last step.
Lift up the black flap and pull out to release the flex cable.

Locate the white tab to the right and flip it up using the plastic opening tool.

Rotate the device 90 degrees clockwise.
Use the spudger to pull up the narrow black cable out and move it out of the way to the left.

Now you will have to lift up the rear camera assembly that is covering the end of the copper strip.

Once you see the sharp corner of the copper strip, use a spudger to lift it off of the camera housing. Under the strip will be another connector cover in a small piece of black tape. Follow the steps from step 5 to remove the cable from this connection.

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the ZIF connector by flipping up the black retaining flap.

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the ZIF connector by flipping up the black retaining flap.

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the ZIF connector by flipping up the black retaining flap.

Using a T5 screwdriver remove the nine 1.5 mm T5 screws securing the mother board to the body.

When all screws are removed use a plastic opening tool to lift the mother board off the body.
The mother board has been completely removed.

Kettler treadmill - Kettler marathon ST – Service mode – Calibration procedure - Error codes – Error code troubleshooting

SERVICE MODE
When incline motor needs calibration:
1.When controller changed.
2.When incline motor is changed.
3.When both controller and incline motor are changed.
4.If controller CPU is changed.
CALIBRATION
1.To calibrate, make sure the treadmill is not running (running belt not moving).
2.Turn power on. Wait a few seconds.
3.Press the STOP and SPEED- buttons at the same time, then the buttons STOP and SPEED+, then the SPEED- button. The treadmill is in calibration mode.
Press the START button. The treadmill will run calibration for the incline motor.
NOTE: If error 5 appears, it means the controller remembers a different value, so we need to bypass the controller to calibrate the incline motor. In that case, we have to disconnect the incline sensor cable to bypass the old memory. Then calibration can be done properly.
4.Just run through a few functions to make sure everything is in good condition.

Er 01

Speed sensor

Speed sensor is broken.
Main power relay is broken(in the motor controller).
Motor is broken or motor wire is badly connected.
PWM circuit that is in console is broken.
Main cable is damaged.

Turn off and on the power.
Push Start key to test the treadmill.
Warning : Do not step on the treadmill, it is very dangerous.
1) Check if motor is running for short time.
if NO.
Check motor wire connection, motor brush connection, motor itself.
Motor controller circuit or signal cable was broken.
PWM circuit that is in console was broken.
if YES
Speed sensor wire connection , or speed sensor was broken.
Speed sensor circuit that is in motor controller was broken.
Signal cable or console was broken

Er 02

Over speed

When treadmill runs faster than target speed. - Check Power circuit.
When User kicks the treadmill belt faster intentionally.
Frequency is very low.
It usually happens during workout(14Km/h to 16Km/H).

Turn off and on the power.
Start the treadmill and check if there are Error 41 or others.
Warning : Do not step on the treadmill, it is very dangerous.

Er 06

Memory

EEPROM of console error, eeprom problem or circuit problem.
Frequency is very low.

Turn off and on again. If it happens continually , you have to change the console

Er 08

Angle switch

Angle switch broken.
When the treadmill is folded.

When Err 08 on the console, even if treadmill is not folded.
Check the cable connection first and then check the angle switch(motor control board).

Er 15

Under speed

When treadmill runs slower than target speed.
Motor is damaged.
AC input is lower than normal value(lower than 210VAC), with heavy user.
Deck and belt condition is not good.(Check silicone).

Turn off and on the power.
Push Start key to test the treadmill.
Warning : Do not step on the treadmill, it is very dangerous.
During testing, if motor makes electric howling noise.
Check the motor condition and motor wires are tightly connected.
Check the condition of deck and belt, if deck and belt are damaged
you have to change the deck and belt , and lubricate it with silicone.

Er 05 , Er 51 , Er 52 , Er 53

Elevation

Check incline sensor or motor.
Err 51,Err 52,Err 53 happen during self test or calibration.

Turn off and on the power.
Calibrate the elevation motor again and check the console value.
Push and hole 12%+ 6% keys together for 2seconds to calibrate the motor.
Then treadmill goes up and goes down to the bottom, please check the value on the it
It should be more than 190 at the top, and it should be less than 40 at the bottom.
Check the error message.
Er 51, Er 52, Er 53 or no message.
Check the elevation motor runs or not, when you test it ?
Warning : Do not step on the treadmill, it is very dangerous.
If no error message,
Please send the value that is displayed of the LCD during calibration to KETTLER.
You have to do calibration again, if you want to use the elevation function.

Er 40 , Er 41

Over acceleration

Treadmill accelerates too fast than normal.
It happens when the speed is less than 8 Km/H.
Fatal error. Stop using treadmill.
Power circuit could be broken.
Same as Er 40, but it happens at the beginning of workout.( During Start)

Turn off and on the power.
Start the treadmill and check the Error message again.
Check the motor runs or not , when you test it ?
Warning : Do not step on the treadmill, it is very dangerous.

ASUS PadFone – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the mother board

Using the spudger, insert the tip into the crease between the back cover and the phone and pry it upwards.
Work your way around the phone until the entire back cover is loose.
Remove the 13 screws using the torx T5 bit in the screwdriver.
Using the spudger, insert the tip into the crease between the mid-frame and the phone and pry it upwards.
Work your way around the phone until the entire back cover is loose and remove the mid-frame.
Using the plastic spudger, gently disconnect the battery cable from the motherboard.
Applying too much force will damage the connector.
Use the plastic spudger to pry the battery pack from the phone. Pry along edge away from the motherboard as this might damage the motherboard.
The battery pack is held on by double sided tape, you will have to apply some force when prying out the battery.
Using a flat head screwdriver, pry the speaker connector from the motherboard.
Use the plastic spudger tool to gently pry the camera connector up from its socket on the motherboard.
Applying too much force will damage the conector
Using the tweezers, remove the rear camera from the Padfone X
The camera is lightly glued to the motherboard. You may need to use a plastic opening tool to loosen the adhesive under the camera
Insert the tip of the flat head screwdriver between the panel and the metal clip then gently push down until the clip is slightly bent away from the panel.
Do this for all the clips holding the panel down.
After all clips are bent away, remove the panel.
Disconnect the first connector by prying it upward using the spudger.
Disconnect the second connector by first lifting the lock then pulling the connector outward.
Insert the tip of the spudger under the motherboard and gently pry upward.
Work your way around until the motherboard is free.
Once the motherboard is removed, replace it with a new motherboard.

Apple iPad Wi-Fi - How to replace the Dock Connector Cable

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.
Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.
Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.
Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.
With one spudger, work your way along the right edge of the iPad.
The front panel is held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. The right side has plastic tabs which slide into recesses in the backplate.
Once the clips are released, lift the left side of the front panel up and slide it to the left to clear the tabs from the aluminum backplate.
Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.
Do not attempt to remove the display at this time, as it is attached to the rear panel assembly.
In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:
Digitizer
Ambient Light Sensor
Display Data Cable
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.
Be sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.
Use a plastic opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.
Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.
Pull the cable connector away from its socket.
Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.
Remove the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.
Remove the two 4.56 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connector cable to the main board.
Remove the single 2.84 mm T5 Torx screw connecting the dock connector cable to the rear case assembly.
Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connector cable to the rear panel assembly.
Carefully remove the plastic cover over the WiFi/Bluetooth board and dock connector cable using a plastic opening tool.
Pry the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth antennas up off their respective sockets on the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth board.
Remove the dock connector cable from the rear panel assembly.