Apple MacBook Pro 13 Retina Display – How to replace the Trackpad

Apple MacBook Pro 13

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
Two 2.3 mm Pentalobe screws
Eight 3.0 mm Pentalobe screws
Wedge your fingers between th upper case and the lower case.
Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board end of the I/O board cable bracket.

Grasp the I/O board cable bracket with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the MacBook.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.

Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way.

To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.

Carefully tuck the tip of a spudger under the right speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.

Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case.

Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw
One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw
One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case.

Remove the five 3.7 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery to the upper case.

Slightly warm up the battery with a hot air gun.

Push a plastic card between the right-most battery cell and the upper case, cutting the adhesive between the two.Use the plastic card to pry the right-most battery cell up from the rear case.

Repeat this procedure with the next battery cell in.

Push the card about an inch between the battery cell and the upper case, and slowly pry the cell up to separate all of the adhesive.

Position the plastic card to keep the two right-most battery cells from re-adhering to the upper case.

Reheat , this time to the left-most battery cells.
Again, leave it in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the left-most battery cells.

Insert a second plastic opening tool between the far left battery cell and the upper case, cutting adhesive about an inch deep.

Gently pry the left-most battery cell up from the upper case.
Continue to repeat the procedure from the right side of the battery.

Insert the plastic card between the second left-most battery cell and the upper case to cut the adhesive joining the two, and pry the cell up from the case.

Leave the second card in the corner between the two left cells.

In the following steps, you can either use a third card, or the card from the right corner. The right corner adhesive should be cooled enough that it won't resettle.

Insert the card about an inch between the left-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and the case.

Pull the card back out and insert it about an inch between the right-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and case.

By this point, the outer cells should be free, and you should only encounter resistance from the two center cells. If this is not the case, go back and completely loosen the four outer-most cells from the upper case.
Pry up on the two center cells to separate the last of the adhesive and remove the battery from the device.

Slightly warm up the trackpad

Use a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the trackpad cover plate up from the upper case.
Go slowly and carefully to avoid putting any visible creases in the plate.

Use a plastic opening tool to slowly and carefully peel the trackpad cover plate up off the upper case.

Gently peel the plate up to remove it.

If necessary, peel back any tape covering the trackpad cable connector.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the upper case opening where the trackpad ribbon cable passes is routed through.

Gently pry the trackpad ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

Remove the following screws securing the trackpad brackets to the trackpad and upper case.
Four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws
Four 1.7 mm T5 Torx screws

Use tweezers to remove the two trackpad mounting brackets from the upper case.

To avoid scratching the display, open the computer about 90º and set it on end.

Carefully guide the trackpad ribbon cable through the slot cut in the upper case.
This will push the trackpad up out of its recess in the top of the upper case.
Guide the trackpad out of the upper casewith your other hand, so it doesn't fall.

Gently pull the trackpad away from the upper case, being careful not to snag the ribbon cable.

Samsung Galaxy S III – Disassembling procedure - How to replace the mother board

Samsung Galaxy S III

The following four steps can be accomplished without a plastic opening tool. However, it's recommended to use a tool to best avoid breaking any clips along the perimeter of the rear case.
Insert a plastic opening tool or fingernail into the notch in the gap between the rear case and the rest of the phone, located at the top of the device.
Gently twist the opening tool to disconnect the clips securing the top of the rear case.

Slide the plastic opening tool left along the top edge and repeat the twisting motion to widen the gap between the rear case and the phone.

Continue to move the plastic opening tool around the perimeter of the top left corner, gently prying up along the rear case.

Pry along the top right side, and continue prying down the right side of the rear case.

Lift up and remove the rear case from the phone.

You may need to peel the case up to separate it from any clips still holding it to the bottom of the phone.

This step can be accomplished without the need of a plastic opening tool. Just use your finger if you want to.

Wedge a plastic opening tool into the small notch above the battery.
Pry the battery up out of its recess.

Remove the battery.

Using your fingernail, push the SIM card slightly deeper into its slot, until you hear a click.

After the click, release the card and it will pop out of its slot.
For reassembly, push the SIM card into the slot until it clicks in place.

Use your thumb to slide enough of the SIM card out of its slot to grab ahold of it.

Grasp and remove the SIM card away from the phone.

Using your fingernail, push the microSD card slightly deeper into its slot, until you hear a click.

After the click, release the card and it will pop out of its slot.
For reassembly, push the microSD card into the slot until it clicks in place.

Use your thumb to slide the microSD card out of the slot.

Remove the microSD card from the phone.

Remove the ten 4.0 mm Phillips #0 screws securing the midframe to the front panel assembly.

Grasp the left side of the plastic midframe with your thumb and forefinger and lift it away from the phone.

The midframe lightly snaps in place, and can be removed with very little force.

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear-facing camera connector up from its socket on the motherboard.

Make sure you are prying on the connector and not the socket, or you may damage the motherboard.

Insert a plastic opening tool outboard of the speaker portion of the headphone jack/speaker assembly.

Gently pry the headphone jack/speaker assembly up from the front assembly.

Lift the headphone jack/speaker assembly out of the Galaxy S III.

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the front-facing camera connector from its socket on the motherboard.
Do not try to remove the front-facing camera just yet. Its cable is still routed beneath the motherboard assembly to the ambient light sensor.

Disconnect the digitizer cable by gently prying its connector up from its socket on the motherboard.

Disconnect the display data cable from the motherboard.

Pry the Wi-Fi antenna cable connector up from its socket on the motherboard.

Gently move the cable out of the way of the motherboard.

Remove the single 3.0 mm Phillips #0 screw securing the motherboard to the front panel assembly.

Carefully lift the bottom of the motherboard assembly away from the front panel assembly.

Remove the motherboard assembly from the front panel assembly, minding any cables that may snag on it.

Flip the motherboard over. We recommend setting it on a grounded work surface.

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear-facing camera connector from its socket.

Remove the rear-facing camera off the motherboard.

The motherboard remains.

Alcatel OneTouch Evolve – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the volume button

Alcatel OneTouch Evolve
This will be an opening with enough space to insert the flat head of the plastic opening tool. it will be located on the bottom right of the phone
Rotate the pry tool 90 degrees until the panel lifts up.
With your thumb nail, lift the rest of the panel up around the perimeter of the phone.
This is the battery for the Alcatel   One Touch Evolve. Look for this component when the back panel has been removed.
Place finger in the tab on the top right corner of the battery indicated by a black arrow. With slight pressure, push battery down and out of the slot until the battery is removed
There will be eight 4.5mm screws that fit your Phillips head PH00 screwdriver notated by the red circles in the image.
Unscrew each screw, counter clockwise (left), until each one has been removed.
If necessary, use tweezers to fully remove the screws from the device. Remove battery before lifting off the panel.
Access the small pry tool in the tool kit
Place flat head in the crease between the phone and panel where the matte finish meets the shiny finish of the front of the phone.
Rotate the pry tool 90 degrees until part of the panel lifts up
All areas need to be fully risen off before the panel can be removed.
Do not use the opening tool to pry open the device near the power button or near the volume button.
This will be located in the top right of the back side of the secondary panel and will be clear in color.
Using the smaller pry tool, place the flat head on the area of the button exposed to the exterior, and push with slight pressure until the button is inside the secondary panel.
Using the tweezers, lift the clear rubber extensions of the volume buttons out of their tabs located inside the secondary panel.

Apple iMac Intel 27- EMC 2639 – How to replace the SATA Hard drive – how to replace the CPU

Apple iMac Intel 27

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the  Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.
The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

Use the tool like a pizza cutter - roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.
Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.

Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

Continue along the top of the display.
You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.
Set the iMac face-up on a table.
Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.
Be careful not to insert it more than 3/8", or you may damage internal components.

Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame.

Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much - you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".

Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it.

Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.

Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.

Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over stress the display glass.

Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

Insert the card back into the top left corner.

Only lift the display a few inches - it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables.

With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.
If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.
Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.

Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

Disconnect the display data cable.
This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

Be very careful handling the display - it's big, heavy, and made of glass.

Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac.
It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.
Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

Unplug the left speaker cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull straight up out of the socket.

De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board.
If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.

Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock.

Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.

Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5").

Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.

Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker.
Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.

Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.

Remove two 7.3 mm T10 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.

Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.

Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.
Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.

Remove the left hard drive bracket.

When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

Disconnect the power supply control cable from the power supply.

Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case:

Two 23.7 mm T10 screws.
Two 7.3 mm T10 screws.

Do not attempt to remove the power supply from the case; it is still attached to the logic board by two cables.

Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.

Pull the DC power cable straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector.
Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.

Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

Gently rock the right speaker slightly to the right, to allow access to its cable's connection on the logic board.

Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

Pull the connector to the right to remove it from its socket.

Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

Peel the black tape connecting the fan to the exhaust duct back slightly.

Leave the tape in place on the exhaust duct, you only need to expose the joint to free the fan.

Remove three 12.4 mm T10 screws securing the fan to the rear case.

Remove the fan from the iMac.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables. From left to right on the card, the antennas are connected in the following order:
Leftmost
Top
Upper right
Lower right

This is a delicate connection that can be easily broken.

Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable.
Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

Gently push the cable out of the way.

Remove the following screws from the front of the logic board:

Two 23.7 mm T10 screws
Four 7.4 mm T10 screws
One 20.8 mm T25 spacer screw
One captive T10 screw
This screw is beneath a hole in the logic board. You'll need a fixed screwdriver or the 60 mm extension from an iFixit driver kit to reach it.

The hard drive SATA cable can't be removed just yet, but will get in the way of removing the logic board.

Pull the cable and connector through the right hard drive bracket. Move the cable to the right side of the iMac, out of the way of the exhaust port.

Remove two 5.7 mm T10 screws from the top of the heat sink exhaust duct.

Tilt the logic board slightly forward.

Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag on any of the screw posts attached to the inside of the rear case.

When reassembling your iMac, be very careful to align the exterior I/O ports correctly. The logic board can sit crooked even when secured with all its screws.

You can use a USB flashdrive or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.

Remove the four 7.5 mm T9 screws from behind the GPU on the logic board.

These screws are set inside large, spring-loaded Phillips #2 screws. To prevent the larger screws from spinning when you loosen the T9 screws, hold them with a fingertip or Phillips #2 screwdriver.

Remove the bracket from behind the GPU heat sink.

Remove four black stickers from the back of the CPU heat sink.

Remove four 12.3 mm T10 screws from the back of the CPU heat sink.

Remove the spring plate from behind the CPU heat sink.

Lift and remove the backing plate from behind the CPU heat sink. The backing plate has two posts that fit into alignment holes in the logic board.

Lift the heat sink up from the logic board.

The CPU will most likely stick to the heat sink, so be careful about where you put it down.

The CPU will most likely be stuck to the heat sink with thermal compound.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the CPU and heat sink.
Gently pry the CPU up by slightly twisting the spudger.
Remove the CPU from the heat sink. Be careful not to touch the contacts.
To install a new CPU, see our thermal paste guide for instructions on cleaning and preparing the thermal surfaces and applying a new layer of thermal compound onto the CPU and GPU dies.
The GPU side has a gap between all memory chips and the cooler. Once you remove the cooler the thermal compound will break up leaving partial amounts on the cooler and memory contact points.

Sony tablet - Sony Reader Touch Edition PRS-600 – Disassembling procedure - How to replace battery – How to replace the screen

Sony Reader Touch Edition PRS-600

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Using the Phillips head screwdriver PH000, remove the two 1.4 mm screws that are located on the backside of the device.

Slide the back cover off by pushing it to the left, away from the side that held the screws. Remove the cover.

This is what the device should look like once the back cover panel has been removed.

Once the back cover has been removed locate the battery in the bottom right corner of the device.

Using the pointed end of the spudger, push out the white plug that is connected to the battery from its beige base.

Use the flat end of the spudger to pry the battery out of its holder.

There may be glue holding it in place.
Remove the stylus from the device.

Using the Phillips screwdriver remove the 1.4 mm screw from the top panel.

Using the same screwdriver, remove the 1.4 mm screw from the back of the device.
Pry apart off the top panel of the device.

Using a Phillips head screwdriver, remove the two 1.4 mm screws from the bottom panel of the device.

Using the same screwdriver, remove the 1.4 mm screw that is located on the back of the device.

Pull the panel away from the device. You may have to use the flat end of the spudger to remove the side portion of the panel because it will be glued in place.

Using a screwdriver remove the four 1.4 mm screws that are holding the black plastic casing in place.

Pry open the black casing to access the screw that is holding down the battery holder.

Remove the one 1.4 mm screw that is holding down the battery holder located under black casing.
Lift the black inner casing and the battery holder out of the device.
The battery holder and the black inner casing are connected by a thin strip of copper. There may be glue holding the black inner casing in place.

Using a Phillips head screwdriver, remove the one 1.4 mm screw holding in the motherboard.

Using the flat end of the spudger, flip up the 4 latches holding down the thin, orange strips that connect the motherboard to the screen, audio/AC adapter/micro USB ports, and SD card/PRODuo ports.

To disconnect the the screen, audio/AC adapter/micro USB ports, and SD card/PRODuo ports pull each orange slip away from their corresponding latch.

Lift the end of the motherboard closest to the memory cards and pull out.

Using a Phillips head screwdriver, remove the three 1.4 mm screws located on the SD/memory card holder.

Remove the SD/memory card holder from the device.

Using the Phillips head screwdriver, remove the two 1.4 mm screws in the screen at the bottom of the device that are usually covered by the power switch panel.

Using the same screwdriver, remove the 1.4 mm screw at the bottom of the device that is usually covered by the bottom and side panel.

Remove the four 1.4 mm screws that are located on the side of the device that are usually covered by the bottom and side panel.

Be sure to lift the thin, orange strip that is attached to the audio/AC/mini

USB ports out of the way, before removing the screen.
Lift the end of screen opposite the red edge and pull it out of the casing.

LG Mobile Phone - LG Xenon – Disassembling procedure - How to replace the LCD Display

LG Xenon

Turn the phone over so the back side is facing you.

Placing your thumb on the bottom of the phone, apply pressure to the small ridge in the middle of the phone and push upward towards the camera.

The back casing should slide off.

Using your index finger, pull the top of the battery out first. Place your finger at the top center of the battery in the gap that is provided. Then pull the battery towards yourself.

The battery should easily fall out after the top of the battery has been pulled out.

Unscrew the six 2.4mm Phillips #00 screws (three on the left and three on the right of the phone) to remove the inner back case.

Once all six screws are removed, use the plastic opening tool to carefully pry apart the inner back case. Push the plastic tool underneath the case. Carefully push upward, with the tool, while moving it around the case.

Remove the camera, lock, and volume buttons from the side of the phone.

Carefully remove the two 3mm Phillips #00 screws (one on the top and one on the bottom) that are attaching the motherboard to the phone.

For this next step, carefully lift and remove the motherboard.

A connector cable will still be connected to the motherboard upon removing it.
Damage to the connector cable will permanently disable phone.

Carefully unclip the silver metallic tab from the motherboard.

Once the cable is removed, you have successfully disassembled the motherboard of your phone.

Turn the motherboard over and carefully remove the keypad from the motherboard.

The keyboard may be sitting loosely in the case (not attached to the motherboard). Carefully remove keyboard from case.

After removing the motherboard and keyboard, unscrew eight 1.6mm Phillips #00 screws in the middle of the phone.

Remove slider piece.

Pay close attention that you don’t lose the spring.
Carefully remove the spring.

Remove six 2.25mm Phillips #00 screws along the outside of the case.

Using the plastic opening tool, carefully open and remove the case. Slide the tool along the edge and pry upwards to open.

Remove the black electrical tape holding the LCD to the screen.

Un-clasp the small tab in the top right corner.

Unhook the LCD from tabs on the bottom using the plastic opening tool.

Remove the LCD. Be careful, the LCD screen is fragile.

BlackBerry PlayBook – Disassembling procedure

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION 
7" Capacitive Touchscreen with Multitouch Support 1 GHz TI OMAP 4430 Dual Core Processor 1 GB RAM.
Dual HD Cameras (3MP and 5MP in the front and back, respectively),The PlayBook lacks support for mobile broadband.
DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 
Insert a plastic opening tool into the PlayBook's rim, and pray to the gods of electronics that the front panel doesn't shatter.
Upon releasing the clips surrounding the perimeter, the rear case can be removed.
Unlike other popular tablets, the PlayBook's guts are not housed within the back cover but are instead attached to the display assembly.
The PlayBook has a 20 watt-hour battery, which is a bit smaller than the iPad 2's 25 watt-hour and the Xoom's 24 watt-hour battery. Even though the battery in the
PlayBook has a smaller capacity, the battery life is rumored to be comparable to the iPad 2 and Xoom, although official numbers have not yet been released.
Now we can remove a pair of screws from the battery connector with a Phillips #00 screwdriver.
Next we pry off the battery connector to bring us one step closer to the goods.
Continue by prying off all the other connectors from the motherboard.
Next we remove a couple Phillips screws from the motherboard. In an array of light showering us from the BlackBerry heavens (not pictured), we remove the motherboard from the PlayBook.
Front view of the motherboard.
Elpida B8064B2PB-8D-F 1GB DRAM & the TI OMAP4430 1GHz dual-core processor.
SanDisk SDIN5C2-16G 16 GB NAND Flash.
Texas Instruments TWL6030 Power Management.
STMicroelectronics XTV0987 5 MP mobile imaging processor.
Wolfson WM8994E audio codec Texas Instruments WL1283 GPS/WLAN/Bluetooth/FM
TriQuint Semiconductor TQP6M9002 802.11a/b/g/n + BT front-end module.
And the rear view of the motherboard.
Texas Instruments LMV339 Quad General Purpose Low-Voltage Comparators
Texas Instruments SN74AVCH4T245 4-Bit Dual-Supply Bus Transceiver with Configurable Voltage Translation and 3-State Outputs.
Bosch Sensortec BMA150 Digital 3- axis accelerometer Invensense MPU-3050 3 axis gyroscope.
Texas Instruments PS63020 High Efficiency Single Inductor Buck Boost Converter with 4A Switch.
Now turn attention back to the front panel assembly.
The right speaker is held in place by just two Phillips screws.
The speakers conveniently use pressure contacts to make an electrical connection to the motherboard.
Each speaker assembly houses two individual speakers, bringing the total speaker count to four.
The left speaker assembly lifts straight out of the steel mid-frame, while still connected to the battery.
The mid-frame is secured to the front panel assembly by a few screws.
Remove the mid-plane board, which houses the battery, left speaker, and antennas.
This design allows for quick-and-easy access to the front panel and LCD - the most commonly broken components on mobile devices.
The actual antennas in the PlayBook are built into the rear case and speaker modules, and are attached to the antenna cables via pressure contacts.
The camera assembly is easily removed from its recess.
The front camera, rear camera, and top control buttons are all attached as one assembly, making
the replacement of a broken power button or volume buttons very costly.
The headphone jack cable is held in place by a metal retainer.
The right microphone is also attached to this assembly.
Dual microphones presumably allow for noise cancelling to eliminate background noise.
We peel the left microphone off the front panel assembly.
Upon removing a rubber cover and dust grill, we can read: S233 7252
After removing a few retaining screws, the LCD can be lifted off the front panel assembly. This little 7" panel packs a 1024 x 600 resolution.
Upon closer inspection, we find that the frame around the front glass panel is made of magnesium, a strong yet light metal. Many devices are using magnesium for structural components due to its desirable qualities for mobile devices. The Cypress CY8CTMA3 Multi-Touch All-Point TrueTouch projected capacitive touchscreen controller is visible in the last picture. It is attached directly to the digitizer cable.