Friday, 30 November 2018

How to replace the front panel of apple iPhone – Apple iPhone 5c front panel replacement


Apple iPhone 5c:  front panel replacement procedure 
Remove the two 3.8 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.
The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5c that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair on an iPhone 5, 5s, or 5c. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to step 5. Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws. Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.
The top suction cup should rest just above the home button. Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.
Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case. The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables. Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button. Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.
Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly. While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case. Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices. With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup. There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.
Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup. Remove the suction cup from the display assembly. Lift the home button end of the front panel up to gain access to the connectors near the top of the phone. During the next few steps, until you remove the front panel assembly, keep it supported at a 90ยบ angle in relation to the rear case.
Remove the following Phillips #000 screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:
Two 1.3 mm screws
One 1.7 mm screw
One 3.25 mm screw It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 3.25 mm screw or the 1.7 mm screw in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly. Be careful not to over-tighten the screws. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size, don't force them.
Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.
Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector. Be sure to only pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board.
Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the LCD cable connector. The LCD and Digitizer connectors are on the same cable assembly, so prying the LCD connector up should disconnect both connectors. Double check that the two cables are fully disconnected before removing the display. When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off its connector. A blank screen, or white lines on the display could be caused by a loose connection. Should this happen, reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.
Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the home button bracket to the display assembly.
Use a plastic opening tool to pry the edge of the home button ribbon cable up from the display assembly.
Start under the contact points on the right and work to the left. Starting from the left and going right may rip your ribbon cable. The contacts are well adhered to the front panel and should be peeled up first.
If you have trouble sliding the plastic opening tool under the contact points, flip the tool over and gently push against the right side of the contact cable to loosen the adhesive, then try again.
Remove the home button ribbon cable from the display assembly.
Gently push the top right corner of the home button up away from the front panel. Do not push the home button all the way through; you only need to get a corner free so that you can pry it out with a spudger. This membrane is very thin. If you feel like you are going to tear the button, apply heat and try again.
Peel the home button the rest of the way off of the display by prying gently with a spudger. Remove the home button assembly from the front panel.
Remove two Phillips #000 screws securing the upper component bracket to the display assembly.
One 4.2 mm screw
One 2.3 mm screw
Use the flat edge of a spudger to push the earpiece speaker bracket off the display assembly.
Remove the earpiece speaker from the iPhone.
Using the pointed end of a spudger, gently pry the earpiece speaker contact cable up, to separate this portion of the camera and sensor cable from the adhesive below. There is a small, square, plastic and metal holder for the proximity sensor. This holder is essential for the proximity sensor to function correctly. f replacing the proximity sensor make sure that the holder remains adhered to the back of he display. If it comes off with the old proximity sensor, remove it from the old sensor and use a tiny bit of adhesive to re-attach it to the back of the display.
Slide the point of a spudger under the microphone to lift it out of its recess in the display assembly.
Remove two 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screws from each side of the LCD frame (four total).
Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws from the LCD shield plate.
One at bottom of the display assembly near the home button opening
One at the top of the display near the cables
Remove the LCD shield plate from he display assembly. Display Assembly remains.

Monday, 26 November 2018

Samsung Galaxy S4: disassembling procedure


Samsung Galaxy S4 - disassembling procedure – How to remove the back cover – How to remove the middle frame
Pry with a plastic opening tool, or your fingernail, in the divot to the left of the rear-facing camera, near the power button.
Lift the rear case by the corner nearest the divot and remove it from the phone.
Use the flat end of a spudger, or your fingernail, to press the microSD card slightly deeper nto its slot until you hear a click. After the click, release the card and it will pop out of its slot. Remove the microSD card. For reassembly, push the microSD card into the slot until it clicks in place.
Insert a plastic opening tool, or your finger, into the notch of the battery compartment and lift the battery upward. Remove the battery from your phone.
Use a plastic opening tool, or your fingernail, to press the SIM card slightly deeper into its slot until you hear a click. After the click, release the card and it will pop out of its slot. Remove the SIM card. During reassembly, push the SIM card into the slot until it clicks in place.
Remove the nine 4.0 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the midframe to the display assembly.
The midframe is secured to the display assembly by several plastic clips behind the chrome bezel of the midframe. The next few steps will guide you through separating the clips to free the midframe. Starting on the volume button side of the phone, insert your plastic opening tool between he chrome bezel around the display glass and the larger chrome border piece. Look for he seam between the two. Slide the opening tool along the seam, separating the plastic clips as you go. Be very gentle whilst prying, and pry only enough to separate the plastic clips—there are several thin points in the midframe bezel that may crack if you bend them too much.
Continue prying around the corner of the phone. Slide your opening tool along the seam between the midframe and display along the bottom of the device, releasing more of the plastic clips.
Again, pry around the corner, to the power button side. Slide the opening tool along the seam.
Continue sliding the opening tool around the top of the phone, releasing the last of the clips and freeing the midframe from the display assembly. At this point, you may want to run your plastic opening tool along the entire perimeter of the device again, to make sure you've released all of the plastic clips.
Remove the midframe from the display assembly.
Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB board cable connector from the motherboard.
Gently insert the point of a spudger between the USB port and the USB port bracket to pry one side of the bracket off of its post.
Remove the USB port bracket from the USB port. The bracket is slightly springy and should pop back into place on the two screw posts during reassembly.
Disconnect the soft button cable from the USB board cable. Disconnect the antenna cable connector from the USB board. Depending on your carrier, you may have an additional antenna cable. If you can access it at this point, use a spudger to disconnect it from the USB board.
The USB board is secured to the display assembly with light adhesive. Depending on your carrier the USB board may have an additional antenna cable on the back side of the USB board. Pry very carefully and stop if you encounter resistance. Gently insert the flat end of a spudger beneath the USB board to free it from the adhesive holding it in place. Go slow and be careful not to bend the board.
Remove the USB board from the display assembly.

LG 52LG50FD, 52LG50FD-SA-Service adjustments-service mode entry-white balance adjustment-ADC component 1 RGB adjustment and more

  These adjustments are similar to 42LB7DF Because this is not a hot chassis, it is not necessary to use an isolation transformer. However...