Samsung gas range – Samsung FX510BGS/XAA - FX710BGS/XAA – Error codes and causes – Troubleshooting

Samsung FX510BGS/XAA - FX710BGS/XAA

Checking Error Codes:
There are two kinds of error codes. One denotes an oven temperature sensor error and the other denotes a safety error. Possible error codes during use can be checked before service.
1. Press Clock pad to select “AM” or “PM”. Each time the pad is pressed, the display toggles to the other setting.
The default setting is “PM”
2. Press the number pads 1,2,3 and 4. Make sure the Kitchen Timer and Warming Drawer are both turned OFF.
3. Press the Start pad.
4. Press the Custom Cook and the 0 number pads at the
same time for 2 seconds. Error codes are displayed.
5. Press the 0 number pad, to display the latest 5 error codes.
If the power is interrupted and the oven turns off, the stored error codes are deleted.
6. Press the Clear/Off pad to return to normal display mode.

Natural Gas to LP Conversion :

The natural gas to LP conversion kit that is included with the range contains an orifice for the oven bake and broil burners, each of the surface burners and in the case of the FX710 that has a dual burner (right front), two orifices of different sizes. The FX510 does not have the dual burner.
All orifices must be replaced with the proper size orifice. Each is stamped with the size and is color coded. The color on the orifice corresponds with the color of the gas valve that controls the burners and the face of the orifice is stamped with the color as well.
After replacing the surface burner orifices, there are no adjustments necessary to the burners. If the burner flame is not correct, too high or too low, after verifying the correct orifice is installed the gas valve can be adjusted.

The LP conversion requires this regulator to be set for different pressures as LP gas is operated at higher pressures than natural gas.

From inside the warming / storage drawer reach in and open the red cap on the regulator. Using a 5/8” socket, open end wrench or adjustable wrench, remove the LP regulator stud and set it to the correct position.
The default position of the regulator is set for natural gas. To convert to LP remove the brass regulator using a 5/8” wrench or socket and turn it upside down.

Oven Burner Adjustment.
To adjust the shutter, loosen the locking screw and rotate the shutter towards the open or closed position as needed. If flames are lifting off the burner ports, gradually reduce the air shutter opening until the flames are stabilized. If flames are too yellow and/or too large, gradually increase the air shutter opening until the flames have approximately a 1-in blue cone. If the range is set up for natural gas, the flames should burn with no yellow tipping. If the range is set up for LP gas, small yellow tips at the end of the cones are normal. After the flames are adjusted properly, shut off the oven, retighten the locking screws, replace the oven bottom and racks.

ERROR CODES CAUSES AND SOLUTION 

E27/E28
Oven sensor opened (over 2950Ω)
Oven sensor shorted (Under 930Ω)
1. Disconnect power. Remove the upper rear cover. Disconnect sensor harness from control Measure sensor resistance :1080Ω at room temperature → If different value, replace oven sensor.
2. If there is not any problem with oven sensor, Please check whether there is a damaged terminal or wire on harness.
3. Check resistance of oven sensor connector on main PCB (Normal:2850Ω)
E-08/E-0A
Oven not heating error
Oven over heating error
1. Disconnect power. Open the back cover. Disconnect the two harness connectors to the oven temperature sensor. Measure sensor resistance :1080Ω at the room temperature → If different value, replace oven sensor.
2. Check the broil, bake and convection heater. Check the resistance of each.
3. Check whether DLB of sub PCB, Broil, Bake and Convection heater relay are being activated
4. Check wiring harnesses between main PCB.
5. Check the resistance of oven sensor connector on main PCB.
(Normal : 2850Ω)
SE

Shorted key
1. Check if cable of keypad has been inserted into connector of main PCB.
2. Check for short between main PCB and connector or keypad and cable.
3. If there is not a problem with connector on main PCB and cable of keypad, replace the main PCB.
E-OE

Door locking error
1, Press and hold Cook Time & Delay Start for 3 seconds to test motor operation.
2. Disconnect power. Open the back cover. Check wiring harness connections between door lock switch and motor.
3. Check resistance of door lock motor ,1750~1850Ω at the room temperature.
4. With operating door lockout, measure voltage at door lock motor. (Normal Voltage : AC 120V)
5. Check whether door locking switch is operating properly.
6. Measure resistance CN501 on PCB.
(COM-NO: ∞ at the room temperature)
*COM : Yellow Wire *NO : White Wire
E-53

EEPROM error

Replace PCB

Troubleshooting
Warming drawer heater is not working. (FX710 Only
Measure the resistance of the warming drawer heating element.

Normal: ~24Ω
Check the warming drawer terminal on the main board and the element (T606)
Check the warming drawer relay (RY605) on the PCB.
Measure the voltage to the heating element
Normal: 120VAC
Replace the warming drawer heater Clean connections
Replace the main Board
Convection fan not working

Measure the resistance of the convection fan motor.
Normal: ~26 Ω
Measure the voltage to the fan motor
Normal: 120VAC
Check the connections to the fan motor
Check the fan relay (RY607) on the main board.
Replace the fan motor
Clean connections
Replace the main board
Convection heater not working (FX710 only)
Measure the resistance of the convection heating element
Normal: ~18 Ω
Measure the voltage to the heater
Normal: 120VAC
Check the connections to the heater and the main board (T607)
Check the heater relay (RY606) on the main board.
Replace the warming drawer heater
Clean connections
Replace the main board
None of the surface burners will light

Check the gas supply to the range
Check for burner spark
Check the igniter switch connection at the spark module
Open the gas valve to the range
Check the igniter switches—Turn the gas off and disconnect the electric to the range. Turn the igniter switches one by one to the 11:00 position to simulate
“Lite” and measure the resistance of the switches at the spark module.
Normal: 0Ω (only in this position)
Check the spark module
Only one of the surface burners will not light
Because of the placement of the orifice, even though the burner cup is protected, it is possible for spillage to get into the cup and block the nozzle
Clean or replace the orifice with the correct Size.
All surface burners will light but will not stay lit
Check for crimped or restricted gas lines to the surface burner manifold
Check the main gas supply valve is turned on completely
Check the LP converter in the regulator to make sure it is in the correct position

Oven Temperature Errors 

Burner will not light Check the HSI (Igniter)

Check the wiring to the HSI
Check the connections to the safety valve
Check that the safety valve is wired correctly
Replace the Igniter
Reseat or repair the wiring
Wire the safety valve correctly
Burner will light but not stay lit

Check the connections to the safety valve
Check that the safety valve is wired correctly
Check that the burners have the correct orifice size for the gas being used
Check the air adjustments for proper flame
Check that the regulator has the correct position of the LP converter Reseat or repair the wiring
Wire the safety valve correctly Place the regulator LP converter in the correct position for the gas being used
Using the Bake or Broil function the oven does not seem to be heating correctly
(The measured temperature in the oven does not match the display)
Check the connections to the temperature sensor
Check the resistance of the temperature sensor
Check for any stored errors
Check that the burners have the correct orifice size for the gas being used
Check the air adjustments for proper flame
Check that the regulator has the correct position of the LP converter
Reset or repair the wiring
Check that the burners have the correct size orifice for the gas being used.
Place the regulator LP converter in the correct position for the gas being used
Note: If the temperature is more that 15 degrees off from the display, it is possible that the temperature sensor has changed value. If the sensor changes value the oven display will be set to the desired temperature but the actual temperature in the oven cavity will be different. If the temperature in the oven compartment is slightly off the user has the ability to offset the temperature ±30 degrees as outlined in the owner's manual. More than that, suspect a sensor that has changed but is not bad enough to display an error.
The hot surface igniter will not come on:

Check the igniter with a meter, you should have continuity through the HSI. If open replace the HSI. HSI’s do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas without the oven working .

Lenovo IdeaPad - U550 – Disassembling procedure – How to test the charger – how to check the battery pack – How to remove battery

Lenovo IdeaPad - U550

To verify a symptom, follow the steps below:
1. Turn off the computer.
2. Remove the battery pack.
3. Connect the AC adapter.
4. Make sure that power is supplied when you turn on the computer.
5. Turn off the computer.
6. Disconnect the AC adapter and install the charged battery pack.
7. Make sure that the battery pack supplies power when you turn on the computer.
If you suspect a power problem, see the appropriate one of the following power supply checkouts:
“Checking the AC adapter”
“Checking operational charging”
“Checking the battery pack”
Checking the AC adapter
You are here because the computer fails only when the AC adapter is used.
If the power-on indicator does not turn on, check the power cord of the AC adapter for correct continuity and installation.
If the computer does not charge during operation, go to “Checking operational charging”.
To check the AC adapter, follow the steps below:
1. Unplug the AC adapter cable from the computer.
2. Measure the output voltage at the plug of the AC adapter cable. See the following figure:

Note: Output voltage for the AC adapter pin No. 2 may differ from the one you are servicing.

3. If the voltage is not correct, replace the AC adapter.
4. If the voltage is acceptable, do the following:
Replace the system board.
Note: Noise from the AC adapter does not always indicate a defect.
Checking operational charging
To check whether the battery charges properly during operation, use a discharged battery pack or a battery pack that has less than 50% of the total power remaining when installed in the computer.

Perform operational charging. If the battery status indicator or icon does not light on, remove the battery pack and let it return to room temperature. Reinstall the battery pack. If the charge indicator or icon is still off, replace the battery pack.
If the charge indicator still does not light on, replace the system board.Then reinstall the battery pack. If it is still not charged, go to the next section.
Checking the battery pack
Battery charging does not start until the Power Meter shows that less than 95% of the total power remains; under this condition the battery pack can charge to 100% of its capacity. This protects the battery pack from being overcharged or from having a shortened life.
To check your battery, move your cursor to the Power Meter icon in the icon tray of the Windows  taskbar and wait for a moment (but do not click it), and the percentage of battery power remaining is displayed. To get detailed information about the battery, double-click the Power Meter icon.
Note: If the battery pack becomes hot, it may not be able to be charged. Remove it from the computer and leave it at room temperature for a while. After it cools down, reinstall and recharge it.

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE: How to remove Battery pack

Remove ten screws 1 and two screws 2.

Open the back cover in the direction shown by arrow 3.

How to remove Hard disk drive

Remove the frame fixing screws 1. Pull the tab in the direction shown by arrow 2.

Hold the SATA receptacle connector with one hand and pull the hard disk drive (secured in the metal frame) in the direction shown below to detach the connector.

HTC Evo 4G – How to replace the speaker

HTC Evo 4G: SPEAKER REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE 

Gently insert an iPod opening tool between the rear panel and the inner rear frame near the headphone jack.
Use your iPod opening tool to pry up the rear case around the perimeter of the Evo.

Lift the rear panel off of the inner rear frame.

Using the tip of your finger, lift the battery from the end closest to the camera.

Remove the battery from the rear inner frame.

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the MicroSD card out of its slot in the inner rear frame.

Remove six T5 Torx screws securing the rear inner frame to the inner case.

Gently insert an iPod opening tool between the rear inner frame and its plastic surround near the Micro HDMI port.

Carefully pry the top edge of the rear inner frame away from the front surround of the Evo.

Insert the iPod opening tool between the rear inner frame and its plastic surround and pry up at several points along the left edge of the Evo.

Continue the prying procedure, now focusing on detaching the plastic surround from the bottom of the Evo.

Pry up the rear inner frame along the right edge using the method described in previous steps.
Eventually work around the entire perimeter of the rear inner frame until it is lifted slightly from the inner case.

Remove the rear inner frame from the rest of the Evo.

Use an iPod opening tool to pry the rear speaker out of its housing in the rear inner frame.

Nintendo Wii U GamePad – Disassembling procedure - How to remove the case - How to replace Analog swatch

Nintendo Wii U GamePad: DISSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Face the GamePad down and unscrew the two Phillips #00 screws which are attached to the battery cover. Lift up and remove the battery cover.

With your finger on the battery connector, pull downwards toward the base of the GamePad to disconnect it. Pull upwards from the bottom of the battery to release it.

Remove the ten 8.9mm Tri-wing Y1 screws hidden underneath square stickers. Lift up the back plate. The back plate is still connected by a cable to the motherboard.

Unplug the connector that connects the back plate to the motherboard. Remove the back plate.

Take out the left and right shoulder buttons in the upper corners. Remove the ZR and ZL trigger buttons by lifting up and sliding outward.

Remove the top rubber cover by pulling it off of its mounts to access one of the mounting screws. Remove the four 5.2mm Phillips #0 screws.

Use a spudger to lift the tab which releases the blue ribbon cable. Remove the analog stick and button cover.

Use your thumb and push the connector towards the rightmost edge to disconnect the analog stick cable connector.

Remove the two 9.0mm Tri-wing Y0 screws. Lift out the analog stick.

Troubleshooting - Samsung D7000 Series LED TV backlight troubleshooting – How to test LED failure - How to troubleshooting LED TV backlight inverter faults

Samsung D7000 Series - Troubleshooting
D7000 Series LED TV Power supply and Backlight Failures
Troubleshooting the Samsung D7000 LED Series TVs has been a challenge for many techs, especially when trying to determine whether a problem is caused by the Power Supply, a Panel LED Backlight failure, or a Main Board failure. This has led to delays in repair, incorrect board and panel replacements, and REDO.
The Power On Sequence:
To test the Power On sequence, follow these steps:
1. Locate the Power Connectors on the SMPS Power Supply. In this example, that's CNM803 to the Main Board and CNL802A and CNL802B to the Panel‘s LED Backlights. Their pin designations should also be printed and visible on the board.
2. With the TV in Powered Standby Mode, verify Power Standby ―A5V‖ voltage on the Power Supply‘s CNM803 - pin 18 in this example. The ―A‖ signifies ―Always On‖. It should read approx 5.3V with respect to chassis ground, supplying important standby voltage to the Main Board.
3. Activate Power On while observing the Power on/off command from the Main Board, pin 20 on the same connector. It should change from approx 0V to 3.3VDC with Power On.
All the switched voltage supplies, usually designated with a ―B‖, will be turned on. This is a good time to quickly check those voltages. In this example, check B13VDC on pins 7 and 9 and B5VDC on pins 17 and 19 on CNM803.
4. Locate the Back Light On, BLU ON/OFF command coming from the Main Board, Pin 12 CNM803. It should change from approx 0V to approx 5VDV after a short delay of around 1 second from Power On, activating the back lights. The Samsung Smart TV Logo should then appear on screen for a few seconds, and then the TV displays the source selected. The backlights will momentarily turn back off after the Boot Logo is displayed and then back on with the input video displayed. This can be observed on the multi meter BLU on/off and through the rear of the panel and the front screen display.
5. Four P-DIM Control Signals, P-DIM 1 thru P-DIM 4, are sent to the Power Supply from the Main Board controlling independent sets of LED Backlights to the panel. They are TTL type control signals that can be tested with a standard multi meter. To verify these signals are working correctly, activate the TV‘s menu and select Back Light from the Picture Menu.
6. Check the voltage at P-DIM 1 (With respect to chassis ground) while changing the Backlight Menu from the 0 minimum thru 20 max setting. The voltage should change from approx. 0.2V min to 3.3V at max Backlight setting. You can repeat the test for P-DIM2 thru P-DIM4. This verifies the operation of the Main Board Back Light control circuit.
Back Light Power Supply Operation and Testing
The LED D7000 Power supply consists of 4 independent supplies. One supply for each of the four sets of LEDs. The DC Operating Voltage can be checked at the four Electrolytic capacitors C9110, C9210, C9310 & C9410 in this example. The voltage at each capacitor will be approximately 150V for 46 inch D7000 models. This is based on the number of LEDs used in each set. The larger the size TV, the more LEDs required and the higher the voltage supplied. Now carefully check the voltage at each capacitor‘s plus side. They should each read approx the same voltage (149VDC in this example), verifying that each of the four backlight supplies are OK.
Back Light LED Configuration
The SMPS Power Supply Board outputs the Back Light Drive voltages at CNL802B to the right half Panel LEDs, R1 thru R8, and at CNL802A to the left half Panel LEDs, L1 through L8.
The left and right side Panel LEDs are combined at the power supply and grouped into four distinct sets of LEDs to allow separate top to bottom backlight Screen control.
The R1 set of LEDs are connected in series with R2, L2, and L1, and are Edge Positioned in the Panel to light across the Top Quarter of the Screen.
The R3 set of LEDs are connected in series with R4, L4, and L3, and are Edge Positioned in the Panel to light the 2nd Quarter of the Screen.
R5 LEDs are connected in series with R6, L6, and L5, and are Edge positioned to light the 3rd Quarter of the screen. R7 LEDs are connected in series with R8, L8, and L7, and are Edge positioned to light the bottom quarter of the screen.
Since Right Side LEDs and Left side LEDs are connected in series, disconnecting either CNL802A or B will open each string of LEDs and create a no Back Light condition.
Looking at the Drive Voltages in each string:
The four Backlight DC Supply Voltages, approx 150V each, connect directly to the beginning of each of the four string sets of LEDs at R1+, R3+, R5+, and R7+ (Figure 1, left side).
The four P-DIM Control signals from the Main Board are processed by the Power Supply and produce important Back Light Control Voltages for each return line: L1-, L3-, L5-, and L7- located at the end of each string set of LEDs (Figure 1, right side).
The 150 VDC Supply voltages will remain constant while the Backlight control voltages will vary from approximately 0.7V at the maximum Backlight setting to approx 34V at the minimum Backlight setting. This can be observed by adjusting Backlight from 20 thru 0 in the on screen menu setting. The voltages across each individual string of LEDs will also vary from approx 37VDC to 27VDC with the Max to Min Backlight changes as shown on the bottom of the Figure 1 diagram. The corresponding voltage changes at each junction, with reference to chassis ground, are also shown and can be verified at the CNL802A and CNL802B panel connectors.
Testing the SMPS and Backlight Operation with No Main Board Connection
It‘s important to understand that disconnecting the Power Supply line to the Main Board and plugging in the AC Power Cord turns on the Power Supply circuits but does not light the Backlights in this model. Follow these steps to test the SMPS and Backlights:
1. With the AC Power Cord removed, disconnect the Power Supply Cable to the Main Board at the Main Board end.
2. Connect the AC Power Cord. This will turn on the SMPS Power Supply, but, because all four P-DIM Control Signals are at approximately 0V, there will be no Backlight LEDs lighting.
3. Check the four SMPS Backlight Power Supply Voltages at the four Electrolytic Capacitors: C9010, C9210, C9310 and 9410. They will have changed from 150VDC, the normal supply operation, to approx 95V VDC. The voltages may also begin fluctuating at each supply between 50-85VDC with the supply cycling on and off. This is also a normal possibility in this condition.
4. Check the four backlight strings one at a time. Using an external wire jumper, locate and connect A5V to the P-DIM.
1 control pins found on CNM803. This will light the left and right LEDs responsible for the top quarter of the screen.
The particular responsible supply, C9110 in this case, will jump from 95V to the normal 150VDC while the other three remain at approx 95V.
The SMPS supply may remain stable enough to simply light the responsible LEDs. However, the power supply error detection circuit may shut off the responsible supply just as it reaches near 150VDC, turn it back on, and then repeat the cycle causing the LED Back Lights to also cycle on and off and repeat indefinitely. This does not prevent the backlights and supply from being tested.
5. Connect A5V to the P-DIM 2 control pins on CNM803.The responsible Left and Right LEDs will now light the 2nd
quarter row of the screen. Its responsible supply will also jump from approx 95VDC to approx 150VDC normal operation.
6. Connect A5V to P-DIM3 and observe the 3rd quarter of the screen for proper LED and SMPS operation.
7. Finally, connect A5V to P-DIM4 and observe the bottom quarter of the screen for proper LED and SMPS operation.
Troubleshooting a Particular Failure
SYMPTOM
The TV turns on with seemingly normal looking video of the Boot Logo for approximately 2 seconds, and then turns off. It remains off for approx 2 second and cycles back on with Boot Logo for about 2 seconds again with good video. This process continues cycling over and over again. The relay on the power supply can also be heard clicking on and off during this time. The Video may advance further to display the input video in addition to the Boot Logo during testing while it continues to cycle on and off indefinitely.
SOLUTION
1. Measuring the four Backlight Power Supplies at each capacitor (C9110, C9210, C9310, and C9410) reveals that 3 of them rise to approximately their normal supply voltage of 150V before dropping with the power cycle off, while the other supply, output at C9210 in this example, rises to over 290VDC before dropping with power cycle off.
OBSERVATION: This condition indicates that there is either a SMPS failure or an LED (Panel) open load failure condition. The supply is likely cycling on/off due to an Over Voltage detection condition. This can be verified by isolating the SMPS from the Main Board.
2. Removing the power supply connection to the Main Board and connecting A5V to P-DIM1 correctly lights L/R LEDs responsible for the top ¼ of the screen, even though in some cases it may power cycle on and off as in this example. Connecting A5V to P-DIM2, however, does not light the next quarter of the screen. Connecting A5V to P-DIM3 correctly lights the next quarter of the screen. Connecting A5V to P-DIM4 correctly lights the bottom ¼ of the screen.
OBSERVATION: Failure of the second quarter of the screen is obvious. The failure may point to either an open set of LEDs, in particular R3, R4, L4, and L3, on the Panel, or a possible Power Supply failure.
3. With the power supply connection to the Main Board still removed, each of the four Backlight supplies now measures approx 95VDC, which may fluctuate between 50VDC and 85VDC while powering on/off for circuit protection. Measuring the voltages at the suspected string set of LEDs reveals a normal 50VDC – 85VDC fluctuation at input R3+ but an improper 0V reading at each of the remaining R4, L4 and L3 pins located on CNL802A and CNL802B.
CONCLUSION: Confirmation of a properly operating SMPS Power Supply and open string set of LEDs is confirmed, since an open series set of LEDs would break the circuit and prevent normal voltage readings at R4, L4, and L3.
SOLUTION: The SMPS is OK. Replace the defective Panel.
POINT TO BE NOTED WHILE TROUBLESHOOTING
# D7000 Samsung LED TVs have four distinct Backlight supplies within the SMPS that control 4 separate sets of LEDs.
# Backlight supplies can be checked by comparing voltages at their related Electrolytic Capacitors on the SMPS Board.
# The Main Board controls the 4 separate sets of LEDs with P-DIM1 through P-DIM4.
# When the Power Supply connection to the Main Board is removed, all the SMPS Supplies will turn on but the Back light LEDs will not light.
# Each set of LEDs can be individually tested by supplying A5V to P-DIM1 through P-DIM4, lighting the combined Left/
# Right Panel LEDs one quarter at a time top to bottom and across the screen.
# Removing CNL802A or CNL802B, the Left and right side sets of LED, will create a no backlight condition since they are connected in series.
# Checking Voltages at the four individual supplies and CNL802A or CNL802B can determine a defective set of panel
# Back Light LEDs or a defective SMPS Power Supply.

How to replace the optical drive Cable - Apple MacBook Pro 15

Apple MacBook Pro 15

OPTICAL DRIVE REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE 

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case: Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws. Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case. Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Remove the two 7.4 mm Y1 Tri-Wing screws securing the battery to the upper case. Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not remove the battery, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified. You do not necessarily have to follow steps 3-6 to remove the battery in order to replace the hard drive. However it is recommended to remove all power sources from electronics before working on them.

Use the tip of your finger to carefully peel back the corner of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-Wing screw. Remove the last 7.4 mm Y1 Tri Wing screw securing the battery to the upper case.

Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case.

Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.

Tilt the battery away from the logic board enough to access the battery cable connector. Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case. Pull the battery cable connector away from the center of the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.

Disconnect the camera cable by pulling its connector away from the socket (toward the optical drive) on the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector up off the logic board.

Remove the two Phillips screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board housing. Carefully rotate the AirPort/Bluetooth board housing (with AirPort/Antenna cables still attached) out of the lower case.

Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case: One 4.5 mm Phillips screw securing the optical drive bracket to the upper case near the fan.
Two 2.5 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case near the optical drive opening.

Lift the optical drive near its connector and pull it away from the upper case to remove it from the computer.

Pull the optical drive cable out of the optical drive. Be sure to pull by the edges of the connector, not by the cable itself.

Huawei Mobile phones - Huawei u7519 – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the case – How to remove the mother board

Huawei u7519: DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Take off the back covering of the phone along with the battery and SIM card.

The SIM card is located above the battery.

Using the Phillips #00 Screwdriver, take out the four small screws located at the four corners of the phone. Save the screws. They will be needed for reassembly.

Using the same screwdriver, take out the two bigger screws located on each side of the battery compartment. NOTE: Save the screws. They will be needed for reassembly.

Once all the screws are removed, use the iPod opening tool to pry off the back covering of the phone along the edge of the back cover and you will have access to the motherboard. Note: The power and volume buttons will fall out of the phone. Set aside for reassembly.

Carefully pull the backing of the phone from the motherboard with your hands.

To remove front case from the motherboard, first pull back the silver tab (highlighted in blue) and the orange tab (highlighted in red).

Once the silver and orange tabs are pulled back, carefully pull the motherboard apart from the front case.

For reassembly: Place the new motherboard on the front case.

Snap the tabs back into place. Replace back casing and snap in place.
Screw in screws. Note: you can also follow these steps in reverse, which is the same process as outline above. Note: replacing the power and volume buttons may be tricky. For ease, use tweezers. You have now successfully replaced the screen for the phone.

How to replace the Wi-Fi Card – Xbox one – How to remove the case

Xbox one WIFI card replacement

With a plastic opening tool, pry the side vent from the console. Start from the back edge and work towards the front of the console.

Slide the black angled tab behind the silver button toward the back of the console and set it aside.

Rotate the Xbox and remove the warranty sticker from the back. Removing this seal and opening the case of the Xbox voids your warranty with Microsoft. Use a plastic opening tool on the back to pry the top of the case from the bottom. Use an up and out motion to dislodge the clips. There are multiple clips to release on the back and two on the sides. This step may take up more time than the others, keep prying with the plastic opening tool and when you release one clip, wedge something underneath it so it doesn't close again.

Carefully lift the top of the case, note that there is a wire connecting the front panel to the motherboard. Take care not to break this. Using a spudger, release the ribbon wire from the front panel. The top case is now free, set it aside.

Remove the speaker by squeezing the the tab on the black plastic mounting piece and lifting it up. Carefully unplug the connector from the green front panel board. The speaker is now free, set it aside.

Unscrew the two 8.2mm T-9 screws securing the Wi-Fi board to the chassis. Using the spudger, gently lift the antenna connector from the Wi-Fi board.

Using a spudger and a motion similar to the previous step, gently lift the antenna connector from the green board on the front. Carefully pull out the clips securing the antenna wire to the chassis, releasing the wire.

Carefully pull the Wi-Fi board straight up to release it from the chassis. The Wi-Fi board is now free.

Lenovo 41-80 – How to remove the HDD – How to remove the CD ROM – How to test the Battery charger

Lenovo 41-80 
To verify a symptom, follow the steps below
1. Turn off the computer.
2. Remove the battery pack.
3. Connect the AC adapter.
4. Make sure that power is supplied when you turn on the computer.
5. Turn off the computer.
6. Disconnect the AC adapter and install the charged battery pack.
7. Make sure that the battery pack supplies power when you turn on the computer.
If you suspect a power problem, see the appropriate one of the following power supply checkouts:
Checking the AC adapter
You are here because the computer fails only when the AC adapter is used.
If the power-on indicator does not turn on, check the power cord of the AC adapter for correct continuity and installation..
To check the AC adapter, follow the steps below
1. Unplug the AC adapter cable from the computer.
2. Measure the output voltage at the plug of the AC adapter cable. See the following figure:
Note: Output voltage for the AC adapter pin No. 2 may differ from the one you are servicing.
3. If the voltage is not correct, replace the AC adapter.
4. If the voltage is acceptable, do the following:
Replace the system board.
Note: Noise from the AC adapter does not always indicate a defect.
Checking operational charging
To check whether the battery charges properly during operation, use a discharged battery pack or a battery pack that has less than 50% of the total power remaining when installed in the computer.
Perform operational charging. If the battery status indicator or icon does not light on, remove the battery pack and let it return to room temperature. Reinstall the battery pack. If the charge indicator or icon is still off, replace the battery pack.
If the charge indicator still does not light on, replace the system board. Then reinstall the battery pack. If it is still not charged, go to the next section.
Checking the battery pack
Battery charging does not start until the Power Meter shows that less than 95% of the total power remains; under this condition the battery pack can charge to 100% of its capacity. This protects the battery pack from being overcharged or from having a shortened life.
To check your battery, move your cursor to the Power Meter icon in the icon tray of the Windows taskbar and wait for a moment (but do not click it), and the percentage of battery power remaining is displayed. To get detailed information about the battery, double-click the Power Meter icon.
Note: If the battery pack becomes hot, it may not be able to be charged. Remove it from the computer and leave it at room temperature for a while. After it cools down, reinstall and recharge it.
How to remove the Battery pack
Unlock the manual battery latch 1. While holding the spring-loaded battery latch in the unlocked position 2, then remove the battery pack in the direction shown by arrow 3.
How to remove Optical drive
Remove the screw 1. Then remove the optical drive by arrow 2.
How to remove Hard disk drive
Remove the frame fixing screws 1. Remove the hard disk drive in the direction by arrow 2

Toshiba Satellite Laptop – E205 - Disassembling - How to remove the keyboard - How to replace the Optical drive

Toshiba Satellite E205: OPTICAL DRIVE REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE 
With the battery away from you, slide the locking clips out.
The left clip stays, the right clip is spring loaded. Slide the battery away from you.
Use a spudger to carefully pry up the keyboard screw cover.
Remove the two screws securing the keyboard to the chassis.
Carefully tilt the keyboard towards you and release the ribbon cables.
Use a spudger if needed to release the latch. The latch slides out. The keyboard is now free and can be set aside.
Remove the five black screws
Remove the one silver screw
Flip the laptop over so the bottom is facing up.
Using a spudger, remove the seven rubber inserts.
The feet only go in one location on the bottom of the laptop, so save yourself some time and track where they go.
Remove the six silver screws.
Remove the one black screw.
Stand the laptop up on end.
Remove the two rubber inserts from the back of the laptop. One insert is on each side of the laptop.
Remove the two screews.
Carefully work a spudger in the crack at the back of the laptop and separate the small rubberized section from the bottom of the laptop.
Remove the four screws.
Disconnect the black wireless antenna lead.
The bottom of the laptop is now ready to lift off.
Carefully work a spudger around the seam of the laptop separating the bottom from the rest of the laptop.
There is a data connection at the front of the laptop that needs to be disconnected.Use a spuder to carefully disconnect the wire from the motherboard. Once this is free the bottom will come off.
Locate optical drive
Remove the three screws securing the optical drive.
Slide the optical drive away from the motherboard, and carefully lift up.

HTC Desire 510 – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the case – How to remove the earpiece

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 
Switch off the phone; remove the battery and any installed SIM and memory cards. Remove 7x Torx T5 screws.
Use a plastic tool to remove the rear bezel. The loudspeaker is on the inner side of the rear bezel.
Disconnect the touch screen flex cable. Disconnect the light sensor flex cable. Unstuck the vibra-motor from the middle frame. Remove the coaxial antenna cable from the middle frame. The LCD display flex cable is connected to the bottom side of the board.
At the upper left side, the board is held by a plastic locking clip. Use a plastic tool and start the separating from here. Gently disconnect the LCD display flex cable. Now remove the logic board.
Front and Main Cameras
Main / Rear camera.
EARPIECE
The earpiece is in the upper part of the middle panel.