Apple iPhone 3GS:
Step by Step battery replacement procedure
Remove
the two 3.7mm Phillips #00 screws from the dock-connector end of the iPhone.
Remove
the metal handle from the suction cup. It's easier and safer to grip the
suction cup's base instead of the metal handle. Be very careful when opening
the iPhone so that the cables under the display are not severed. There is a
rubber gasket between the silver front bezel and black display assembly. A bit
of force is required in this step to separate the iPhone's display assembly. It
may help to rock the suction cup back and forth to remove the display assembly.
Use a small suction cup near the Home button to gently pull up the bottom
portion of the iPhone's display assembly. If the display assembly is too
damaged to allow the suction cup to adhere, tape with a strong adhesive such as
duct tape or packing tape may be used.
The
display assembly is still connected to the iPhone by several cables, so don't
try to remove it entirely just yet. Rotate the display assembly up until it is
at an angle of approximately 45 degrees.
Continue
to hold the display assembly with one hand, and use your other hand and a spudger
to disconnect the black ribbon cable labeled "1". (Cable 1 is for the
display)
Be
careful to insert the spudger from the left, as shown in the picture (UNDER THE
RIBBON). If you try to pry up the ribbon from the right, you could damage the
ribbon connector and need to replace the display!
Al l connectors except the ribbon connector mentioned in step 7 release
upwards.
Rotate
the display assembly up until it is roughly vertical. This will allow easier
access for disconnecting the remaining cables. Use a spudger to disconnect the
black ribbon cable labeled "2". (Cable 2 is for the capacitative
touch panel)
Please
note: You may find on some non-American (Chinese, European) versions of the 3G
that the flip up plastic tab does not exist. In this case you would slide the
ribbon cable towards the screen until it is removed. When you assemble it, you
would apply pressure to the ribbon to insert it back into the ribbon
"socket." Some iPhones may have the connector colors reversed (black
plastic tab, white connector) for connector "3". Make sure you're
flipping up the tab properly, otherwise you may damage the connector. Use a
spudger to flip up the white plastic tab holding the ribbon cable "3"
in place. The white tab will rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable.
Slide the black ribbon cable out of its connector, and remove the display
assembly from the iPhone.
Insert
your SIM eject tool or a paper clip into the hole next to the headphone jack.
Press down on the tool until the SIM card tray pops out. Grasp the SIM card
tray and slide it out of the iPhone. Use a spudger to disconnect the ribbon
cable labeled "4."
Use
a spudger to disconnect the ribbon cable labeled "5."
Use
a spudger to disconnect the ribbon cable labeled "6." If you have an
iPhone 3GS, refer to the second picture and use a spudger to disconnect the
ribbon cable labeled "7." Be certain that the connectors on the
ribbon cables are perfectly aligned with the sockets on the mother board before
applying pressure. This may require a magnifying glass or jewelers' loupe.
Remove
the following 8 screws: Five 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screws with partial threads
securing the logic board to the rear case.
Two
2.3 mm Phillips #00 screws with full threads securing the logic board and
camera.
One 2.9 mm Phillips #00 screw from beneath the "Do not remove" sticker.
N ote for re-assembly: The screw that goes next to the camera (bottom right orange highlighted screw) also has a metal strip that holds the camera in place.
Remember to put this strip back in place before you insert the 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screws with full thread next to the camera
One 2.9 mm Phillips #00 screw from beneath the "Do not remove" sticker.
N ote for re-assembly: The screw that goes next to the camera (bottom right orange highlighted screw) also has a metal strip that holds the camera in place.
Remember to put this strip back in place before you insert the 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screws with full thread next to the camera
Use
a spudger to gently pry the camera up and out of its housing in the rear case.
The camera cannot be removed entirely yet because it's connected to the bottom
of the logic board. Use a spudger to gently pry up the end of the logic board
closest to the dock connector. There is a small golden grounding tab on logic
board adjacent to the 'do not remove sticker'. Be VERY careful this does not
snag on the side of the case when prying up the logic board; it breaks easily.
If you have signal problems after removing the logic board, check this ground
tab. If the board won't lift up, double check to make sure all the screws
securing the logic board have been removed.
Slide
the logic board towards the dock connector and out of the iPhone. When
replacing the logic board after installing battery, connect the camera to the
logic board before inserting it into the case. Then make sure to set the top
section of the logic board (where the SIM tray is) in place before settling the
rest of the board in place. This is important, as sometimes the SIM card slot
will not align into place. Once the top section is in place, the bottom section
can be maneuvered into place. You will know the logic board is correctly
installed when the SIM tray is aligned with the opening in the iPhone case and
the camera module seats neatly into its place.
Use
a spudger to pry the battery up from the rear case. The battery is attached
with an adhesive strip around the perimeter of the battery. To prevent the
battery from bending during the removal process, we recommend against using
just the plastic pull-tab . *Note: Removing the battery is NOT necessary for
replacing the GPS antenna. It merely gives you more space for removing the
headphone assembly (which is also unnecessary to completely remove). The
iPhone's battery is attached to the rear case with a mild adhesive. This
adhesive usually comes out attached to the battery. If your replacement battery
already includes an adhesive backing, you're all set. If your replacement
battery doesn't have an adhesive backing, you'll want to transfer the adhesive
from your old battery to the new one.
You
can use a hair dryer or heat gun on its lowest setting to heat the back of the
case. This will help loosen the adhesive bond before using the spudger to
separate the battery from the case back.