Apple MacBook Pro 13 Retina Display – How to replace the Trackpad

Apple MacBook Pro 13

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
Two 2.3 mm Pentalobe screws
Eight 3.0 mm Pentalobe screws
Wedge your fingers between th upper case and the lower case.
Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board end of the I/O board cable bracket.

Grasp the I/O board cable bracket with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the MacBook.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.

Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way.

To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.

Carefully tuck the tip of a spudger under the right speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.

Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case.

Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw
One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw
One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case.

Remove the five 3.7 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery to the upper case.

Slightly warm up the battery with a hot air gun.

Push a plastic card between the right-most battery cell and the upper case, cutting the adhesive between the two.Use the plastic card to pry the right-most battery cell up from the rear case.

Repeat this procedure with the next battery cell in.

Push the card about an inch between the battery cell and the upper case, and slowly pry the cell up to separate all of the adhesive.

Position the plastic card to keep the two right-most battery cells from re-adhering to the upper case.

Reheat , this time to the left-most battery cells.
Again, leave it in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the left-most battery cells.

Insert a second plastic opening tool between the far left battery cell and the upper case, cutting adhesive about an inch deep.

Gently pry the left-most battery cell up from the upper case.
Continue to repeat the procedure from the right side of the battery.

Insert the plastic card between the second left-most battery cell and the upper case to cut the adhesive joining the two, and pry the cell up from the case.

Leave the second card in the corner between the two left cells.

In the following steps, you can either use a third card, or the card from the right corner. The right corner adhesive should be cooled enough that it won't resettle.

Insert the card about an inch between the left-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and the case.

Pull the card back out and insert it about an inch between the right-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and case.

By this point, the outer cells should be free, and you should only encounter resistance from the two center cells. If this is not the case, go back and completely loosen the four outer-most cells from the upper case.
Pry up on the two center cells to separate the last of the adhesive and remove the battery from the device.

Slightly warm up the trackpad

Use a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the trackpad cover plate up from the upper case.
Go slowly and carefully to avoid putting any visible creases in the plate.

Use a plastic opening tool to slowly and carefully peel the trackpad cover plate up off the upper case.

Gently peel the plate up to remove it.

If necessary, peel back any tape covering the trackpad cable connector.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the upper case opening where the trackpad ribbon cable passes is routed through.

Gently pry the trackpad ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

Remove the following screws securing the trackpad brackets to the trackpad and upper case.
Four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws
Four 1.7 mm T5 Torx screws

Use tweezers to remove the two trackpad mounting brackets from the upper case.

To avoid scratching the display, open the computer about 90º and set it on end.

Carefully guide the trackpad ribbon cable through the slot cut in the upper case.
This will push the trackpad up out of its recess in the top of the upper case.
Guide the trackpad out of the upper casewith your other hand, so it doesn't fall.

Gently pull the trackpad away from the upper case, being careful not to snag the ribbon cable.

Samsung Galaxy S III – Disassembling procedure - How to replace the mother board

Samsung Galaxy S III

The following four steps can be accomplished without a plastic opening tool. However, it's recommended to use a tool to best avoid breaking any clips along the perimeter of the rear case.
Insert a plastic opening tool or fingernail into the notch in the gap between the rear case and the rest of the phone, located at the top of the device.
Gently twist the opening tool to disconnect the clips securing the top of the rear case.

Slide the plastic opening tool left along the top edge and repeat the twisting motion to widen the gap between the rear case and the phone.

Continue to move the plastic opening tool around the perimeter of the top left corner, gently prying up along the rear case.

Pry along the top right side, and continue prying down the right side of the rear case.

Lift up and remove the rear case from the phone.

You may need to peel the case up to separate it from any clips still holding it to the bottom of the phone.

This step can be accomplished without the need of a plastic opening tool. Just use your finger if you want to.

Wedge a plastic opening tool into the small notch above the battery.
Pry the battery up out of its recess.

Remove the battery.

Using your fingernail, push the SIM card slightly deeper into its slot, until you hear a click.

After the click, release the card and it will pop out of its slot.
For reassembly, push the SIM card into the slot until it clicks in place.

Use your thumb to slide enough of the SIM card out of its slot to grab ahold of it.

Grasp and remove the SIM card away from the phone.

Using your fingernail, push the microSD card slightly deeper into its slot, until you hear a click.

After the click, release the card and it will pop out of its slot.
For reassembly, push the microSD card into the slot until it clicks in place.

Use your thumb to slide the microSD card out of the slot.

Remove the microSD card from the phone.

Remove the ten 4.0 mm Phillips #0 screws securing the midframe to the front panel assembly.

Grasp the left side of the plastic midframe with your thumb and forefinger and lift it away from the phone.

The midframe lightly snaps in place, and can be removed with very little force.

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear-facing camera connector up from its socket on the motherboard.

Make sure you are prying on the connector and not the socket, or you may damage the motherboard.

Insert a plastic opening tool outboard of the speaker portion of the headphone jack/speaker assembly.

Gently pry the headphone jack/speaker assembly up from the front assembly.

Lift the headphone jack/speaker assembly out of the Galaxy S III.

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the front-facing camera connector from its socket on the motherboard.
Do not try to remove the front-facing camera just yet. Its cable is still routed beneath the motherboard assembly to the ambient light sensor.

Disconnect the digitizer cable by gently prying its connector up from its socket on the motherboard.

Disconnect the display data cable from the motherboard.

Pry the Wi-Fi antenna cable connector up from its socket on the motherboard.

Gently move the cable out of the way of the motherboard.

Remove the single 3.0 mm Phillips #0 screw securing the motherboard to the front panel assembly.

Carefully lift the bottom of the motherboard assembly away from the front panel assembly.

Remove the motherboard assembly from the front panel assembly, minding any cables that may snag on it.

Flip the motherboard over. We recommend setting it on a grounded work surface.

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear-facing camera connector from its socket.

Remove the rear-facing camera off the motherboard.

The motherboard remains.

Alcatel OneTouch Evolve – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the volume button

Alcatel OneTouch Evolve
This will be an opening with enough space to insert the flat head of the plastic opening tool. it will be located on the bottom right of the phone
Rotate the pry tool 90 degrees until the panel lifts up.
With your thumb nail, lift the rest of the panel up around the perimeter of the phone.
This is the battery for the Alcatel   One Touch Evolve. Look for this component when the back panel has been removed.
Place finger in the tab on the top right corner of the battery indicated by a black arrow. With slight pressure, push battery down and out of the slot until the battery is removed
There will be eight 4.5mm screws that fit your Phillips head PH00 screwdriver notated by the red circles in the image.
Unscrew each screw, counter clockwise (left), until each one has been removed.
If necessary, use tweezers to fully remove the screws from the device. Remove battery before lifting off the panel.
Access the small pry tool in the tool kit
Place flat head in the crease between the phone and panel where the matte finish meets the shiny finish of the front of the phone.
Rotate the pry tool 90 degrees until part of the panel lifts up
All areas need to be fully risen off before the panel can be removed.
Do not use the opening tool to pry open the device near the power button or near the volume button.
This will be located in the top right of the back side of the secondary panel and will be clear in color.
Using the smaller pry tool, place the flat head on the area of the button exposed to the exterior, and push with slight pressure until the button is inside the secondary panel.
Using the tweezers, lift the clear rubber extensions of the volume buttons out of their tabs located inside the secondary panel.

Apple iMac Intel 27- EMC 2639 – How to replace the SATA Hard drive – how to replace the CPU

Apple iMac Intel 27

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the  Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.
The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

Use the tool like a pizza cutter - roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.
Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.

Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

Continue along the top of the display.
You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.
Set the iMac face-up on a table.
Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.
Be careful not to insert it more than 3/8", or you may damage internal components.

Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame.

Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much - you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".

Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it.

Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.

Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.

Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over stress the display glass.

Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

Insert the card back into the top left corner.

Only lift the display a few inches - it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables.

With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.
If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.
Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.

Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

Disconnect the display data cable.
This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

Be very careful handling the display - it's big, heavy, and made of glass.

Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac.
It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.
Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

Unplug the left speaker cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull straight up out of the socket.

De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board.
If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.

Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock.

Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.

Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5").

Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.

Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker.
Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.

Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.

Remove two 7.3 mm T10 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.

Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.

Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.
Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.

Remove the left hard drive bracket.

When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

Disconnect the power supply control cable from the power supply.

Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case:

Two 23.7 mm T10 screws.
Two 7.3 mm T10 screws.

Do not attempt to remove the power supply from the case; it is still attached to the logic board by two cables.

Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.

Pull the DC power cable straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector.
Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.

Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

Gently rock the right speaker slightly to the right, to allow access to its cable's connection on the logic board.

Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

Pull the connector to the right to remove it from its socket.

Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

Peel the black tape connecting the fan to the exhaust duct back slightly.

Leave the tape in place on the exhaust duct, you only need to expose the joint to free the fan.

Remove three 12.4 mm T10 screws securing the fan to the rear case.

Remove the fan from the iMac.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables. From left to right on the card, the antennas are connected in the following order:
Leftmost
Top
Upper right
Lower right

This is a delicate connection that can be easily broken.

Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable.
Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

Gently push the cable out of the way.

Remove the following screws from the front of the logic board:

Two 23.7 mm T10 screws
Four 7.4 mm T10 screws
One 20.8 mm T25 spacer screw
One captive T10 screw
This screw is beneath a hole in the logic board. You'll need a fixed screwdriver or the 60 mm extension from an iFixit driver kit to reach it.

The hard drive SATA cable can't be removed just yet, but will get in the way of removing the logic board.

Pull the cable and connector through the right hard drive bracket. Move the cable to the right side of the iMac, out of the way of the exhaust port.

Remove two 5.7 mm T10 screws from the top of the heat sink exhaust duct.

Tilt the logic board slightly forward.

Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag on any of the screw posts attached to the inside of the rear case.

When reassembling your iMac, be very careful to align the exterior I/O ports correctly. The logic board can sit crooked even when secured with all its screws.

You can use a USB flashdrive or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.

Remove the four 7.5 mm T9 screws from behind the GPU on the logic board.

These screws are set inside large, spring-loaded Phillips #2 screws. To prevent the larger screws from spinning when you loosen the T9 screws, hold them with a fingertip or Phillips #2 screwdriver.

Remove the bracket from behind the GPU heat sink.

Remove four black stickers from the back of the CPU heat sink.

Remove four 12.3 mm T10 screws from the back of the CPU heat sink.

Remove the spring plate from behind the CPU heat sink.

Lift and remove the backing plate from behind the CPU heat sink. The backing plate has two posts that fit into alignment holes in the logic board.

Lift the heat sink up from the logic board.

The CPU will most likely stick to the heat sink, so be careful about where you put it down.

The CPU will most likely be stuck to the heat sink with thermal compound.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the CPU and heat sink.
Gently pry the CPU up by slightly twisting the spudger.
Remove the CPU from the heat sink. Be careful not to touch the contacts.
To install a new CPU, see our thermal paste guide for instructions on cleaning and preparing the thermal surfaces and applying a new layer of thermal compound onto the CPU and GPU dies.
The GPU side has a gap between all memory chips and the cooler. Once you remove the cooler the thermal compound will break up leaving partial amounts on the cooler and memory contact points.

Sony tablet - Sony Reader Touch Edition PRS-600 – Disassembling procedure - How to replace battery – How to replace the screen

Sony Reader Touch Edition PRS-600

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Using the Phillips head screwdriver PH000, remove the two 1.4 mm screws that are located on the backside of the device.

Slide the back cover off by pushing it to the left, away from the side that held the screws. Remove the cover.

This is what the device should look like once the back cover panel has been removed.

Once the back cover has been removed locate the battery in the bottom right corner of the device.

Using the pointed end of the spudger, push out the white plug that is connected to the battery from its beige base.

Use the flat end of the spudger to pry the battery out of its holder.

There may be glue holding it in place.
Remove the stylus from the device.

Using the Phillips screwdriver remove the 1.4 mm screw from the top panel.

Using the same screwdriver, remove the 1.4 mm screw from the back of the device.
Pry apart off the top panel of the device.

Using a Phillips head screwdriver, remove the two 1.4 mm screws from the bottom panel of the device.

Using the same screwdriver, remove the 1.4 mm screw that is located on the back of the device.

Pull the panel away from the device. You may have to use the flat end of the spudger to remove the side portion of the panel because it will be glued in place.

Using a screwdriver remove the four 1.4 mm screws that are holding the black plastic casing in place.

Pry open the black casing to access the screw that is holding down the battery holder.

Remove the one 1.4 mm screw that is holding down the battery holder located under black casing.
Lift the black inner casing and the battery holder out of the device.
The battery holder and the black inner casing are connected by a thin strip of copper. There may be glue holding the black inner casing in place.

Using a Phillips head screwdriver, remove the one 1.4 mm screw holding in the motherboard.

Using the flat end of the spudger, flip up the 4 latches holding down the thin, orange strips that connect the motherboard to the screen, audio/AC adapter/micro USB ports, and SD card/PRODuo ports.

To disconnect the the screen, audio/AC adapter/micro USB ports, and SD card/PRODuo ports pull each orange slip away from their corresponding latch.

Lift the end of the motherboard closest to the memory cards and pull out.

Using a Phillips head screwdriver, remove the three 1.4 mm screws located on the SD/memory card holder.

Remove the SD/memory card holder from the device.

Using the Phillips head screwdriver, remove the two 1.4 mm screws in the screen at the bottom of the device that are usually covered by the power switch panel.

Using the same screwdriver, remove the 1.4 mm screw at the bottom of the device that is usually covered by the bottom and side panel.

Remove the four 1.4 mm screws that are located on the side of the device that are usually covered by the bottom and side panel.

Be sure to lift the thin, orange strip that is attached to the audio/AC/mini

USB ports out of the way, before removing the screen.
Lift the end of screen opposite the red edge and pull it out of the casing.

LG Mobile Phone - LG Xenon – Disassembling procedure - How to replace the LCD Display

LG Xenon

Turn the phone over so the back side is facing you.

Placing your thumb on the bottom of the phone, apply pressure to the small ridge in the middle of the phone and push upward towards the camera.

The back casing should slide off.

Using your index finger, pull the top of the battery out first. Place your finger at the top center of the battery in the gap that is provided. Then pull the battery towards yourself.

The battery should easily fall out after the top of the battery has been pulled out.

Unscrew the six 2.4mm Phillips #00 screws (three on the left and three on the right of the phone) to remove the inner back case.

Once all six screws are removed, use the plastic opening tool to carefully pry apart the inner back case. Push the plastic tool underneath the case. Carefully push upward, with the tool, while moving it around the case.

Remove the camera, lock, and volume buttons from the side of the phone.

Carefully remove the two 3mm Phillips #00 screws (one on the top and one on the bottom) that are attaching the motherboard to the phone.

For this next step, carefully lift and remove the motherboard.

A connector cable will still be connected to the motherboard upon removing it.
Damage to the connector cable will permanently disable phone.

Carefully unclip the silver metallic tab from the motherboard.

Once the cable is removed, you have successfully disassembled the motherboard of your phone.

Turn the motherboard over and carefully remove the keypad from the motherboard.

The keyboard may be sitting loosely in the case (not attached to the motherboard). Carefully remove keyboard from case.

After removing the motherboard and keyboard, unscrew eight 1.6mm Phillips #00 screws in the middle of the phone.

Remove slider piece.

Pay close attention that you don’t lose the spring.
Carefully remove the spring.

Remove six 2.25mm Phillips #00 screws along the outside of the case.

Using the plastic opening tool, carefully open and remove the case. Slide the tool along the edge and pry upwards to open.

Remove the black electrical tape holding the LCD to the screen.

Un-clasp the small tab in the top right corner.

Unhook the LCD from tabs on the bottom using the plastic opening tool.

Remove the LCD. Be careful, the LCD screen is fragile.

BlackBerry PlayBook – Disassembling procedure

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION 
7" Capacitive Touchscreen with Multitouch Support 1 GHz TI OMAP 4430 Dual Core Processor 1 GB RAM.
Dual HD Cameras (3MP and 5MP in the front and back, respectively),The PlayBook lacks support for mobile broadband.
DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 
Insert a plastic opening tool into the PlayBook's rim, and pray to the gods of electronics that the front panel doesn't shatter.
Upon releasing the clips surrounding the perimeter, the rear case can be removed.
Unlike other popular tablets, the PlayBook's guts are not housed within the back cover but are instead attached to the display assembly.
The PlayBook has a 20 watt-hour battery, which is a bit smaller than the iPad 2's 25 watt-hour and the Xoom's 24 watt-hour battery. Even though the battery in the
PlayBook has a smaller capacity, the battery life is rumored to be comparable to the iPad 2 and Xoom, although official numbers have not yet been released.
Now we can remove a pair of screws from the battery connector with a Phillips #00 screwdriver.
Next we pry off the battery connector to bring us one step closer to the goods.
Continue by prying off all the other connectors from the motherboard.
Next we remove a couple Phillips screws from the motherboard. In an array of light showering us from the BlackBerry heavens (not pictured), we remove the motherboard from the PlayBook.
Front view of the motherboard.
Elpida B8064B2PB-8D-F 1GB DRAM & the TI OMAP4430 1GHz dual-core processor.
SanDisk SDIN5C2-16G 16 GB NAND Flash.
Texas Instruments TWL6030 Power Management.
STMicroelectronics XTV0987 5 MP mobile imaging processor.
Wolfson WM8994E audio codec Texas Instruments WL1283 GPS/WLAN/Bluetooth/FM
TriQuint Semiconductor TQP6M9002 802.11a/b/g/n + BT front-end module.
And the rear view of the motherboard.
Texas Instruments LMV339 Quad General Purpose Low-Voltage Comparators
Texas Instruments SN74AVCH4T245 4-Bit Dual-Supply Bus Transceiver with Configurable Voltage Translation and 3-State Outputs.
Bosch Sensortec BMA150 Digital 3- axis accelerometer Invensense MPU-3050 3 axis gyroscope.
Texas Instruments PS63020 High Efficiency Single Inductor Buck Boost Converter with 4A Switch.
Now turn attention back to the front panel assembly.
The right speaker is held in place by just two Phillips screws.
The speakers conveniently use pressure contacts to make an electrical connection to the motherboard.
Each speaker assembly houses two individual speakers, bringing the total speaker count to four.
The left speaker assembly lifts straight out of the steel mid-frame, while still connected to the battery.
The mid-frame is secured to the front panel assembly by a few screws.
Remove the mid-plane board, which houses the battery, left speaker, and antennas.
This design allows for quick-and-easy access to the front panel and LCD - the most commonly broken components on mobile devices.
The actual antennas in the PlayBook are built into the rear case and speaker modules, and are attached to the antenna cables via pressure contacts.
The camera assembly is easily removed from its recess.
The front camera, rear camera, and top control buttons are all attached as one assembly, making
the replacement of a broken power button or volume buttons very costly.
The headphone jack cable is held in place by a metal retainer.
The right microphone is also attached to this assembly.
Dual microphones presumably allow for noise cancelling to eliminate background noise.
We peel the left microphone off the front panel assembly.
Upon removing a rubber cover and dust grill, we can read: S233 7252
After removing a few retaining screws, the LCD can be lifted off the front panel assembly. This little 7" panel packs a 1024 x 600 resolution.
Upon closer inspection, we find that the frame around the front glass panel is made of magnesium, a strong yet light metal. Many devices are using magnesium for structural components due to its desirable qualities for mobile devices. The Cypress CY8CTMA3 Multi-Touch All-Point TrueTouch projected capacitive touchscreen controller is visible in the last picture. It is attached directly to the digitizer cable.

Microsoft Surface Pro 4 – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the battery of Surface Pro 4

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE
Turn the Surface Pro so that the screen is facing you as if you were using it normally.
Make sure the device is turned off before you start working on it.
The display is glued to the frame of the device . You can weaken the adhesive with a heating
Use an opening pick to pry around the base of the display. Do this around all the outside edges of the device.
There are tabs on the upper right side and upper left side where it is easier to get a tool under the display.
Attach a suction cup to the front of the display.
Using the suction cup, pull the display and base apart. You may need to hold the base in position with your hands.
It is usually better to place the suction cup on the left or right side of the screen, rather than in the center. This provides more leverage when removing the screen.
There are two display cables connecting the body to the display.
Disconnect the cable on the right by putting a plastic opening tool under the edge of the connector and prying it up.
The connection for the strip on the left is covered by a lightweight metal casing. Pry around the edges of this case with a plastic spudger. Once it is loose, pull it off.
Unplug the connection with a plastic opening tool.
The display should now be free of the body of the Surface Pro. Lift it up and away from the rest of the device.
Both sections of the heat sink are connected to the motherboard via a panel which is covered by a metal casing.
Remove the casing by prying around the edges and then lifting the entire piece once it is loose.
Remove the four 1.5mm Torx T4 screws holding the main body of the heat sink to the motherboard
Remove the 1.5mm Torx T3 screw holding the copper plate near the bottom of the device.
Remove the 1.5mm Torx T4 screw holding the heat sink tubing to the frame of the device.
Remove the 3.0mm Torx T4 screw.
You can now remove entire heat sink by lifting it out with your hands.
Be sure to replace the thermal paste when installing the heat sink.
Disconnect black wire from motherboard.
Remove the screws holding the motherboard in place.
1.5 mm Torx T3 screw
2.0 mm Torx T4 screw
Use plastic opening tool to remove metal casing at the bottom left corner of the motherboard.
Remove remaining screw.
2.0 mm Torx T4 screw.
The battery is attached to the device by strong adhesive tape. Use a plastic opening tool to pry around the underside of the battery. Peel the battery up and away from the bottom of the device.
Do not use metal tools for this step. the battery can leak harmful substances.

Microsoft Surface Pro 4 – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the battery of Surface Pro 4

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE
Turn the Surface Pro so that the screen is facing you as if you were using it normally.
Make sure the device is turned off before you start working on it.
The display is glued to the frame of the device . You can weaken the adhesive with a heating
Use an opening pick to pry around the base of the display. Do this around all the outside edges of the device.
There are tabs on the upper right side and upper left side where it is easier to get a tool under the display.
Attach a suction cup to the front of the display.
Using the suction cup, pull the display and base apart. You may need to hold the base in position with your hands.
It is usually better to place the suction cup on the left or right side of the screen, rather than in the center. This provides more leverage when removing the screen.
There are two display cables connecting the body to the display.
Disconnect the cable on the right by putting a plastic opening tool under the edge of the connector and prying it up.
The connection for the strip on the left is covered by a lightweight metal casing. Pry around the edges of this case with a plastic spudger. Once it is loose, pull it off.
Unplug the connection with a plastic opening tool.
The display should now be free of the body of the Surface Pro. Lift it up and away from the rest of the device.
Both sections of the heat sink are connected to the motherboard via a panel which is covered by a metal casing.
Remove the casing by prying around the edges and then lifting the entire piece once it is loose.
Remove the four 1.5mm Torx T4 screws holding the main body of the heat sink to the motherboard
Remove the 1.5mm Torx T3 screw holding the copper plate near the bottom of the device.
Remove the 1.5mm Torx T4 screw holding the heat sink tubing to the frame of the device.
Remove the 3.0mm Torx T4 screw.
You can now remove entire heat sink by lifting it out with your hands.
Be sure to replace the thermal paste when installing the heat sink.
Disconnect black wire from motherboard.
Remove the screws holding the motherboard in place.
1.5 mm Torx T3 screw
2.0 mm Torx T4 screw
Use plastic opening tool to remove metal casing at the bottom left corner of the motherboard.
Remove remaining screw.
2.0 mm Torx T4 screw.
The battery is attached to the device by strong adhesive tape. Use a plastic opening tool to pry around the underside of the battery. Peel the battery up and away from the bottom of the device.
Do not use metal tools for this step. the battery can leak harmful substances.

Microsoft Surface Pro 4 – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the battery of Surface Pro 4

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE
Turn the Surface Pro so that the screen is facing you as if you were using it normally.
Make sure the device is turned off before you start working on it.
The display is glued to the frame of the device . You can weaken the adhesive with a heating
Use an opening pick to pry around the base of the display. Do this around all the outside edges of the device.
There are tabs on the upper right side and upper left side where it is easier to get a tool under the display.
Attach a suction cup to the front of the display.
Using the suction cup, pull the display and base apart. You may need to hold the base in position with your hands.
It is usually better to place the suction cup on the left or right side of the screen, rather than in the center. This provides more leverage when removing the screen.
There are two display cables connecting the body to the display.
Disconnect the cable on the right by putting a plastic opening tool under the edge of the connector and prying it up.
The connection for the strip on the left is covered by a lightweight metal casing. Pry around the edges of this case with a plastic spudger. Once it is loose, pull it off.
Unplug the connection with a plastic opening tool.
The display should now be free of the body of the Surface Pro. Lift it up and away from the rest of the device.
Both sections of the heat sink are connected to the motherboard via a panel which is covered by a metal casing.
Remove the casing by prying around the edges and then lifting the entire piece once it is loose.
Remove the four 1.5mm Torx T4 screws holding the main body of the heat sink to the motherboard
Remove the 1.5mm Torx T3 screw holding the copper plate near the bottom of the device.
Remove the 1.5mm Torx T4 screw holding the heat sink tubing to the frame of the device.
Remove the 3.0mm Torx T4 screw.
You can now remove entire heat sink by lifting it out with your hands.
Be sure to replace the thermal paste when installing the heat sink.
Disconnect black wire from motherboard.
Remove the screws holding the motherboard in place.
1.5 mm Torx T3 screw
2.0 mm Torx T4 screw
Use plastic opening tool to remove metal casing at the bottom left corner of the motherboard.
Remove remaining screw.
2.0 mm Torx T4 screw.
The battery is attached to the device by strong adhesive tape. Use a plastic opening tool to pry around the underside of the battery. Peel the battery up and away from the bottom of the device.
Do not use metal tools for this step. the battery can leak harmful substances.

Microsoft Surface Pro 4 – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the battery of Surface Pro 4

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE
Turn the Surface Pro so that the screen is facing you as if you were using it normally.
Make sure the device is turned off before you start working on it.
The display is glued to the frame of the device . You can weaken the adhesive with a heating
Use an opening pick to pry around the base of the display. Do this around all the outside edges of the device.
There are tabs on the upper right side and upper left side where it is easier to get a tool under the display.
Attach a suction cup to the front of the display.
Using the suction cup, pull the display and base apart. You may need to hold the base in position with your hands.
It is usually better to place the suction cup on the left or right side of the screen, rather than in the center. This provides more leverage when removing the screen.
There are two display cables connecting the body to the display.
Disconnect the cable on the right by putting a plastic opening tool under the edge of the connector and prying it up.
The connection for the strip on the left is covered by a lightweight metal casing. Pry around the edges of this case with a plastic spudger. Once it is loose, pull it off.
Unplug the connection with a plastic opening tool.
The display should now be free of the body of the Surface Pro. Lift it up and away from the rest of the device.
Both sections of the heat sink are connected to the motherboard via a panel which is covered by a metal casing.
Remove the casing by prying around the edges and then lifting the entire piece once it is loose.
Remove the four 1.5mm Torx T4 screws holding the main body of the heat sink to the motherboard
Remove the 1.5mm Torx T3 screw holding the copper plate near the bottom of the device.
Remove the 1.5mm Torx T4 screw holding the heat sink tubing to the frame of the device.
Remove the 3.0mm Torx T4 screw.
You can now remove entire heat sink by lifting it out with your hands.
Be sure to replace the thermal paste when installing the heat sink.
Disconnect black wire from motherboard.
Remove the screws holding the motherboard in place.
1.5 mm Torx T3 screw
2.0 mm Torx T4 screw
Use plastic opening tool to remove metal casing at the bottom left corner of the motherboard.
Remove remaining screw.
2.0 mm Torx T4 screw.
The battery is attached to the device by strong adhesive tape. Use a plastic opening tool to pry around the underside of the battery. Peel the battery up and away from the bottom of the device.
Do not use metal tools for this step. the battery can leak harmful substances.

LG Vu CU920 – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the LCD Screen

Remove the back cover by firmly pressing against the indent on the back panel. Slide the cover downward and off the phone.

Remove the battery by placing your fingernail or an opening tool at the bottom edge of the battery and lift it out.

Remove the two 3.5mm screws above the battery port with a Philips #00 screwdriver.

Pull out the antenna to reveal a third screw.

Remove the 3.5mm screw with Philips #00 screwdriver.

Locate the plastic tab next to the charging port and use a plastic opening tool to gently pop it out.
Use the plastic opening tool to pry up the edges of the plastic casing. You should be able to slide it around the edge to dislodge it.

Remove the plastic covering to reveal the motherboard.

Locate these six components on the motherboard. They must be detached before the motherboard can be removed.

Gently lift the ZIF connector (black tab) holding the ribbon cable in place. When it is in the upright position, the cable can be removed from the back side.

Remove the connector attached to the red and blue wires by carefully pulling it upward from the motherboard.

Remove the round connector connected to the black cable by carefully prying it up from beneath with a spudger or plastic opening tool.

The remaining three ribbon cables can be removed by gently lifting them by the ends opposite the cables with a plastic opening tool or spudger until they pop out.

To remove the motherboard, gently pry it up with your finger from the charging port.

Be careful not to yank the camera's ribbon cable as you lift the board. Make sure that it is in line with its hole in the motherboard.
Once the board has been lifted, remove it by pulling it away from the connected edge.

Remove the 3.5mm screw holding the antenna guide in place with a Philips #00 screwdriver.

Slide the antenna out to the edge, and remove the plastic tubing by gently pulling it out from the opposite end of the antenna.
This step can be done after the motherboard is removed, or before.

Use a plastic opening tool to carefully pry up the metal antenna guide.

Using a Philips #00 screwdriver, remove the two 3.5mm screws on the bottom corners of the device.

Remove the single 3.5mm screw located at the top next to the speaker's ribbon cable.

Insert a plastic opening tool below the volume rocker and gently pry the silver casing up. As with the plastic casing over the motherboard, you should be able to slide the plastic opening tool along the edge to remove it.

After separating the front casing from the mid frame, begin prying the screen out.

The screen is attached to the midframe with a small piece of adhesive.
Use a plastic opening tool to completely remove the screen.

Apple Mac Intel 27 Retina 5K – How to fix the display of apple Mac

DISPLAY FIXING PROCEDURE 

Before you start placing strips, remove all of the old adhesive. Use a spudger to scrape up an edge, then peel with your fingers.
Remove all of the remaining adhesive strips from the iMac's frame and display glass.

Start with strip 13, which goes on the right vertical. Before peeling off any backing, line it up against the frame of the iMac to get an idea of where it goes.

Peel the short piece of backing off the back of the strip.

Insert the tip of a spudger into the hole at the top of the strip from the side that still has a backing on it.

With the spudger still poking through the hole in the adhesive strip, push the spudger tip into the corresponding hole in the frame of the iMac.

Using the hole and spudger to anchor the position of the adhesive strip, line the strip up against the right edge, gently pull down against the spudger to ensure the strip is taut, and stick it onto the frame.

Once you're satisfied that the top half of the adhesive strip is neatly aligned, peel the longer piece of backing out from behind the strip.

If the top half isn't aligned properly, you can carefully peel it up and re-stick it before peeling off the lower backing strip. Be sure to use the spudger tip to anchor the top.

Align the lower portion of the strip with the right edge of the frame, and stick it down.

Use your finger to smooth all of strip 13. Make sure it is neatly aligned with the right side of the frame and that it sits flat.

Do not peel off the front adhesive backing yet.

Work your way around the perimeter of the iMac, adding three more adhesive strips in the same manner.

Working counter-clockwise from strip 13, place strip 12 on the top right, strip 11 on the top left, and strip 16 on the left vertical.
These three strips have a hole at each end—always use the smaller hole for alignment for more precise placement.
On the iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display, strip 12's blue tabs will not line up with the top antenna in the same way as the regular model. This is perfectly acceptable and won't impact the performance of the strips or antenna.

Strips 14 and 15 will go on the display frame.

Remove the white backing from the back side of strip 14.

With the front-side backing still on, line strip 14 up with the bottom right edge of the rear of the display.

The "L" shaped corner at the end of the strip should fit around the back of the LCD.

Use your fingertips to smooth the adhesive strip from its center out to ensure a good seal with no bubbles or wrinkles.

Repeat the previous 3 steps to place strip 15 on the left side of the bottom edge of the back of the display panel.

Strips 14 and 15 should butt up against each other in the center of the display.

Peel up and remove the backing from strips 15 and 14 on the display.

Peel up and remove the remaining backings from all of the strips around the frame.

Do not fully lower the display in this step; there are still two cables that must be attached. Once you've set the display down, you won't be able to lift it again without damaging the adhesive.

Lay the bottom edge of the display glass against the top of the lower bezel. Be sure to align the edges of the display with the edges of the rear case.

While holding the display panel up with one hand, reach in to reconnect the display data and power cables, as shown in the next step.

Gently insert the display data connector into its socket on the logic board. Be sure to press it straight into the socket, and insert it completely.

Flip the display data connector lock down onto the socket.
Insert the display power connector into its socket on the logic board.

Before sealing the screen in place, you may want to test powering on your iMac to ensure you reconnected everything correctly. Be careful not to touch anything inside while the machine is  powered on.

While pressing the display against its ledge on the lower bezel, lower it down into place.

Apple iMac Intel 21.5 How to replace the HDD - Hard Drive Replacement

Before beginning, unplug your iMac and lay it on a soft surface as shown.
Stick a suction cup near each of the two top corners of the glass panel.
To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.
If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a  mild solvent.
Gently lift the glass panel perpendicular to the face of the LCD enough to clear the steel mounting pins attached along the underside of the top edge of the glass panel.
Pull the glass panel away from the lower edge of the iMac and carefully set it aside.
During reinstallation, be sure to meticulously clean the inside of the glass panel and the face of the LCD as any dust or fingerprints trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the machine is turned on.
Remove the eight 8 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the outer case.
The last two pictures are detail shots of each side of the display.
Slightly lift the top edge of the display out of the outer case.
Do not lift it too much. There are several cables attaching the display to the logic board.
Pull the vertical sync cable connector out of its socket on the LED driver board near the top left corner of your iMac.
Rotate the display out of the outer case enough to disconnect the LED backlight power cable from the LED driver board.
Disconnect the LED backlight power cable by depressing the locking mechanism while pulling the connector away from its socket (toward the bottom edge of the iMac).
The display data cable plug has a wire lock. Disengage the plug's lock by rotating the plastic tab so that it points upward. (It is not a pull tab.)
Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board
Disconnect the LCD thermal sensor cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
If your fan is spinning full speed after completion, check this connection or the hard drive's thermal sensor cable.
Carefully pull the display toward the top edge of your iMac and lift it out of the outer case, minding any cables that may get caught.
Pull the hard drive temperature sensor connector toward the top edge of the iMac to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.
Remove the two 9 mm T10 Torx screws securing the upper hard drive bracket to the outer case.
Slightly rotate the hard drive out of the outer case and lift it up off its  mounting pins toward the top edge of the iMac.
Be careful not to contact the AirPort card as you lift the hard drive out of its recess.
Disconnect the SATA data cable and SATA power connector from their respective sockets by pulling each connector away from the hard drive.
Before disconnecting the thermal sensor cable, take note of its orientation. It is extremely important to reinstall the connector in the current orientation so the fans will not run at full speed.
If you have multiple pins on your replacement hard drive, put the connector closest to the SATA connections and closest to the PCB board.
Disconnect the hard drive thermal sensor cable from the hard drive.
Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the upper bracket to the hard drive.
Remove the upper bracket from the hard drive.
Remove the two T8 Torx pins from the other side of the hard drive.
Carefully peel off the piece of EMI foam attached to the front of the hard drive.
Don't forget to transfer this to your new hard drive.

The iPhone 7 speaker ships with a leash stick-on Wi-Fi diversity antenna that connects to the logic board.

Waterproofing alert. The speaker's output duct fits over a rubber speaker grille gasket for an added layer of ingress protection.
This design is nigh identical to the one we unearthed in the iPhone 7 Plus a couple hours ago.
The duct also has a fine mesh in case the speaker grille doesn't do its water-blocking job.

The SIM eject tool ,pushes on a plastic pin, that pushes a metal pin, which in turn, ejects the SIM tray.

Apple added a rubber gasket around the SIM tray.

You can Now remove the logic board to take a closer look at some silicon.

If you look closely, you'll see minor differences in connector sizes and locations, post holes, and screw locations between the logic board of iphone 7 and 7 plus.
Logic board one side contains 

1.Apple A10 Fusion APL1W24 SoC + Samsung 2 GB LPDDR4 RAM (as denoted by the markings K3RG1G10CM-YGCH)
2.Qualcomm MDM9645M LTE Cat. 12 Modem

3.Skyworks 78100-20  Avago AFEM-8065 Power Amplifier Module Avago AFEM-8055 Power Amplifier Module

And on the flip side contains:

1.SK Hynix H23QEG8VG2ACS 32 GB Flash
2. Murata 339S00199 Wi Fi/Bluetooth Module
3. NXP 67V04 NFC ControllerDialog 338S00225 Power Management IC
4. Qualcomm PMD9645 Power Management IC
5. Qualcomm WTR4905 Multimode LTE Transceiver
6. Qualcomm WTR3925 RF Transceiver

Even more chips on logic board:

1. Bosch Sensortec BMP280
2. Barometric Pressure Sensor
3. Apple/Cirrus Logic 338S00105 Audio Codec
4. Cirrus Logic 338S00220 Audio  Amplifier(x2)
5. Lattice Semiconductor ICE5LP4K

6. Skyworks 13702-20 Diversity Receive Module
7. Skyworks 13703-21 Diversity Receive Module
8. Skyworks 77363-1

Remaining ICs On logic board

1. Avago LFI626 200157
2. NXP 610A38
3. TDK EPCOS D5315
4. Texas Instruments 62W8C7P
4. Texas Instruments 65730A0P Power Management IC
After logic board is out, its free to pick out the Lightning connector assembly.

Prying up the light adhesive went well, but our first tug was in vain. There are some extra screws in this port.
It seems like Apple has taken our warning to heart. Without a headphone jack to bear the burden of audio connections, this port will get a lot more wear, and it's been well reinforced.
Other denizens of the Lightning cable an antenna, two  microphones, two speaker grille plugs, and the Lightning port.

Scraping the bottom of the barrel phone case,  snag an antenna flex cable.

Also, a spidery mess of button cables. They're thin and fragile and tricky to remove intact, but they also snuggle up to a lot of waterproofed components. 

With the rear case nearly stripped, turn attention to the volume buttons that gave some trouble in the 7 Plus.

Persistent tugging with some tweezers rewards with a broken retaining flap, but this button cover still won't come quietly.
Next out is this weird c-clip looking thing.
And the button finally comes off, With two tiny gaskets, Apple is serious about this waterproofing.
This three-part mechanism is much more difficult to disassemble than the button covers, but hopefully the seal it provides means this removal procedure will be needed less frequently.

After some peeling, free the earpiece speaker and an all-new 7 MP FaceTime HD camera with deep trench isolation and auto image stabilization.

This is quite the upgrade from the 5MP FaceTime camera in the 6s.
The earpiece speaker is no slouch either, having been upgraded to serve as a second loudspeaker for legit stereo sound.
Also pluck out the solid state mini touch sensor, home "button."

Apple iPhone 7 - Specification - Disassembling procedure

Specification
1. Apple A10 Fusion processor with embedded M10 motion coprocessor
2. 32, 128, or 256 GB onboard storage capacity
3. 4.7-inch IPS multitouch Retina HD display with 1334 × 750 pixels (326 ppi)
4. 12 MP camera with f/1.8 aperture, optical image stabilization, and 5x digital zoom
5. 7 MP FaceTime HD camera with f/2.2 aperture and 1080p HD recording capability
6. Non-mechanical Touch ID home button driven by new Taptic Engine
7. 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi Fi + MIMO Bluetooth 4.2 + NFC
As you oppen iPhone 7,a few new additions on the surface:
A 1334-by-750, LED-backlit IPS display with a P3 color gamut and 25% higher brightness than that of the 6s.
An f/1.8, 12 MP camera with built-in optical image stabilization. Apple claims it's 60% faster and 30% more efficient than the previous generation.
A quad-LED True Tone flash that's 50% brighter than the iPhone 6s.

The iPhone 7 shares exact dimensions (138.3 mm × 67.1 mm × 7.1 mm) with its predecessor, the iPhone 6s-but has dropped a little weight, coming in at 138 grams compared to the 143 grams of the iPhone 6s.
DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.
If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the Sclack, remove it now -it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 7.
Close the handle on the Sclack, opening the suction cup jaws.
Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.
Position the Sclack's upper suction cup against the display, near the home button.
Open the handles to close the jaws of the Sclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone
After briefly fighting through some sticky adhesives to open the case, you faced with another set of repair obstacles teeny tiny tri-point screws securing the cable bracket etc
With the front panel and strings of sticky glue out of the way, you can whip out our trusty spudger and disconnect the battery. Next, it's time to set our spudger to the task of popping off display connectors.
The iPhone 7 camera boasts a larger f/1.8 aperture, new 6-element lens and 12 MP sensor, four LEDs, and a flicker sensor that can sense flickering light and compensate for it in your photos and videos.
With the new camera out of the way, You can work our way deeper into the 7.
Next out: the audio baffle that thinks it's a headphone jack.
According to Apple, this plastic component is a barometric vent. With the added ingress protection afforded by the watertight seal, the iPhone uses this baffle to equalize the internal and atmospheric pressures in order to have an accurate altimeter.
This Taptic Engine takes advantage of its extra legroom, sizing up for its home button haptic duties.
With the path cleared, you can  use handy spudger to release the adhesive from beneath the battery.Wind up and peel out the three battery pull tabs.
The iPhone 7's power source.
Actually, it's a relatively benign Lithium-ion battery. This 3.8 V, 1960 mAh battery is rated for a capacity of 7.45 Wh.
Apple claims that this upgraded cell will provide up to 14 hours of 3G talk time, 14 hours of Wi-Fi internet browsing, and 10 days of standby.