Fire HDX 8.9 – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the mother board

Ensure that the device is turned off.
Holding the device firmly, wedge a plastic opening tool between the speaker cover and the device.
Then pry up to separate it from the device.
Then begin to firmly pry up the plastic cover with the plastic opening tool.
The backing is connected with adhesive so force may be necessary.
Be careful to not damage the plastic in any way.
Once you can fit your finger under the plastic cover, begin to slide your finger down the cover while simultaneously prying up.

Once you reach the end of the plastic cover you should be able to completely remove it from the device.

Use a T5 screwdriver to remove the four 3.5 mm T5 screws at the top of the device, where the black plastic trim was located.

Release the two clear plastic clips at the top of the device near the speaker using the spudger.

Simply push down the clip with the tip of the spudger.
Push lightly to ensure that the clips aren't damaged.

Use a plastic opening tool to wedge between the screen and the device, while simultaneously holding the clip open from step 4.

Pry the screen very gently to avoid cracking the glass
Start to remove the screen from where the black plastic trim was removed and work the tool around the sides of the device. You will here small pops from the clips on the sides being released.
The Amazon Fire can now be opened with the two flex cables at the base still connected

Now we have to remove the two flex cables attached to both the screen assembly and body of the device.

The cable addressed in step 8 is highlighted in orange.

First turn the device 90 degrees counterclockwise.

Wedge a spudger or plastic opening tool under the black flap of the larger connector and lift up.
Pull the belt out of the connector and lift it up.

Turn the device 180 degrees.

Repeat step 7 for the smaller flex cable connection.

Your screen assembly has now been removed and can be replaced.

Orient the device by rotating the body 90 degrees clockwise.

Peel off the black tape covering the main battery connection.

Use the spudger to lift up and release the battery connector.

Locate the circular gold plug to the left of the battery connection.

Use the spudger to lift this up from the motherboard.

Now use the plastic opening tool to lift up the black flap directly above the gold plug.

Pull the flex cable out.
This is the procedure that will be followed for all flex cables indicated.

Locate the third clip at the top center of the device, up from the first battery connector.

Follow the same procedure from the last step.
Lift up the black flap and pull out to release the flex cable.

Locate the white tab to the right and flip it up using the plastic opening tool.

Rotate the device 90 degrees clockwise.
Use the spudger to pull up the narrow black cable out and move it out of the way to the left.

Now you will have to lift up the rear camera assembly that is covering the end of the copper strip.

Once you see the sharp corner of the copper strip, use a spudger to lift it off of the camera housing. Under the strip will be another connector cover in a small piece of black tape. Follow the steps from step 5 to remove the cable from this connection.

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the ZIF connector by flipping up the black retaining flap.

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the ZIF connector by flipping up the black retaining flap.

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the ZIF connector by flipping up the black retaining flap.

Using a T5 screwdriver remove the nine 1.5 mm T5 screws securing the mother board to the body.

When all screws are removed use a plastic opening tool to lift the mother board off the body.
The mother board has been completely removed.

Kettler treadmill - Kettler marathon ST – Service mode – Calibration procedure - Error codes – Error code troubleshooting

SERVICE MODE
When incline motor needs calibration:
1.When controller changed.
2.When incline motor is changed.
3.When both controller and incline motor are changed.
4.If controller CPU is changed.
CALIBRATION
1.To calibrate, make sure the treadmill is not running (running belt not moving).
2.Turn power on. Wait a few seconds.
3.Press the STOP and SPEED- buttons at the same time, then the buttons STOP and SPEED+, then the SPEED- button. The treadmill is in calibration mode.
Press the START button. The treadmill will run calibration for the incline motor.
NOTE: If error 5 appears, it means the controller remembers a different value, so we need to bypass the controller to calibrate the incline motor. In that case, we have to disconnect the incline sensor cable to bypass the old memory. Then calibration can be done properly.
4.Just run through a few functions to make sure everything is in good condition.

Er 01

Speed sensor

Speed sensor is broken.
Main power relay is broken(in the motor controller).
Motor is broken or motor wire is badly connected.
PWM circuit that is in console is broken.
Main cable is damaged.

Turn off and on the power.
Push Start key to test the treadmill.
Warning : Do not step on the treadmill, it is very dangerous.
1) Check if motor is running for short time.
if NO.
Check motor wire connection, motor brush connection, motor itself.
Motor controller circuit or signal cable was broken.
PWM circuit that is in console was broken.
if YES
Speed sensor wire connection , or speed sensor was broken.
Speed sensor circuit that is in motor controller was broken.
Signal cable or console was broken

Er 02

Over speed

When treadmill runs faster than target speed. - Check Power circuit.
When User kicks the treadmill belt faster intentionally.
Frequency is very low.
It usually happens during workout(14Km/h to 16Km/H).

Turn off and on the power.
Start the treadmill and check if there are Error 41 or others.
Warning : Do not step on the treadmill, it is very dangerous.

Er 06

Memory

EEPROM of console error, eeprom problem or circuit problem.
Frequency is very low.

Turn off and on again. If it happens continually , you have to change the console

Er 08

Angle switch

Angle switch broken.
When the treadmill is folded.

When Err 08 on the console, even if treadmill is not folded.
Check the cable connection first and then check the angle switch(motor control board).

Er 15

Under speed

When treadmill runs slower than target speed.
Motor is damaged.
AC input is lower than normal value(lower than 210VAC), with heavy user.
Deck and belt condition is not good.(Check silicone).

Turn off and on the power.
Push Start key to test the treadmill.
Warning : Do not step on the treadmill, it is very dangerous.
During testing, if motor makes electric howling noise.
Check the motor condition and motor wires are tightly connected.
Check the condition of deck and belt, if deck and belt are damaged
you have to change the deck and belt , and lubricate it with silicone.

Er 05 , Er 51 , Er 52 , Er 53

Elevation

Check incline sensor or motor.
Err 51,Err 52,Err 53 happen during self test or calibration.

Turn off and on the power.
Calibrate the elevation motor again and check the console value.
Push and hole 12%+ 6% keys together for 2seconds to calibrate the motor.
Then treadmill goes up and goes down to the bottom, please check the value on the it
It should be more than 190 at the top, and it should be less than 40 at the bottom.
Check the error message.
Er 51, Er 52, Er 53 or no message.
Check the elevation motor runs or not, when you test it ?
Warning : Do not step on the treadmill, it is very dangerous.
If no error message,
Please send the value that is displayed of the LCD during calibration to KETTLER.
You have to do calibration again, if you want to use the elevation function.

Er 40 , Er 41

Over acceleration

Treadmill accelerates too fast than normal.
It happens when the speed is less than 8 Km/H.
Fatal error. Stop using treadmill.
Power circuit could be broken.
Same as Er 40, but it happens at the beginning of workout.( During Start)

Turn off and on the power.
Start the treadmill and check the Error message again.
Check the motor runs or not , when you test it ?
Warning : Do not step on the treadmill, it is very dangerous.

ASUS PadFone – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the mother board

Using the spudger, insert the tip into the crease between the back cover and the phone and pry it upwards.
Work your way around the phone until the entire back cover is loose.
Remove the 13 screws using the torx T5 bit in the screwdriver.
Using the spudger, insert the tip into the crease between the mid-frame and the phone and pry it upwards.
Work your way around the phone until the entire back cover is loose and remove the mid-frame.
Using the plastic spudger, gently disconnect the battery cable from the motherboard.
Applying too much force will damage the connector.
Use the plastic spudger to pry the battery pack from the phone. Pry along edge away from the motherboard as this might damage the motherboard.
The battery pack is held on by double sided tape, you will have to apply some force when prying out the battery.
Using a flat head screwdriver, pry the speaker connector from the motherboard.
Use the plastic spudger tool to gently pry the camera connector up from its socket on the motherboard.
Applying too much force will damage the conector
Using the tweezers, remove the rear camera from the Padfone X
The camera is lightly glued to the motherboard. You may need to use a plastic opening tool to loosen the adhesive under the camera
Insert the tip of the flat head screwdriver between the panel and the metal clip then gently push down until the clip is slightly bent away from the panel.
Do this for all the clips holding the panel down.
After all clips are bent away, remove the panel.
Disconnect the first connector by prying it upward using the spudger.
Disconnect the second connector by first lifting the lock then pulling the connector outward.
Insert the tip of the spudger under the motherboard and gently pry upward.
Work your way around until the motherboard is free.
Once the motherboard is removed, replace it with a new motherboard.

Apple iPad Wi-Fi - How to replace the Dock Connector Cable

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.
Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.
Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.
Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.
With one spudger, work your way along the right edge of the iPad.
The front panel is held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. The right side has plastic tabs which slide into recesses in the backplate.
Once the clips are released, lift the left side of the front panel up and slide it to the left to clear the tabs from the aluminum backplate.
Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.
Do not attempt to remove the display at this time, as it is attached to the rear panel assembly.
In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:
Digitizer
Ambient Light Sensor
Display Data Cable
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.
Be sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.
Use a plastic opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.
Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.
Pull the cable connector away from its socket.
Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.
Remove the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.
Remove the two 4.56 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connector cable to the main board.
Remove the single 2.84 mm T5 Torx screw connecting the dock connector cable to the rear case assembly.
Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connector cable to the rear panel assembly.
Carefully remove the plastic cover over the WiFi/Bluetooth board and dock connector cable using a plastic opening tool.
Pry the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth antennas up off their respective sockets on the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth board.
Remove the dock connector cable from the rear panel assembly.

Apple Magic Mouse - Disassembling procedure

SPECIFICATIONS 

Multi-touch gesture control
Bluetooth wireless connectivity
Lightning port (for charging and pairing)
Internal lithium-ion battery

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Slightly warm up the bottom of the mouse

In the previous model, strong adhesive secured the aluminum belly to the mouse.

Apple has mentioned that their mouse has an "optimized foot design." Peel off those feet, the new model hides screws underneath.

After lots of heat and half a dozen prying tools wedged under the casing, the mouse is partially released from the gluey mess beneath.

Finally separate the lower casing from the mouse and get first view of its  midframe.

Popping four plastic clips open lets into the battery chamber.

It turns out these clips are actually part of the rocking/clicking mechanism for the single top shell/button.

Also check that clear acrylic. It's only painted on the underside, leaving the top and sides clear.

With the upper casing lifted up, get a clear view of what makes this mouse so senseational that capacitative array.

The capacitative array makes this mouse a bit of a trackpad hybrid, allowing it to detect touch on its surface, registering gestures made without even moving the mouse.

Finally Screws, Unfortunately, they're holding down a bracket over a ribbon cable which prevents us from separating the mouse bits just yet but hey, that ribbon cable.

seatbelt will make the mouse better withstand drops.

Finally separate from the base of the mouse, the upper casing provides a clearer view of its capacitative touch-sensing array.

A little spring provides some resistance and distributes force when the mouse is clicked, making it seem like the small button on the right occupies the whole width of the mouse.

Broadcom BCM20733 Enhanced Data Rate Bluetooth 3.0 Single-Chip Solution

Unknown 303S0499 probably a proprietary Apple touch controller
NXP 1608A1 Charging IC
Texas Instruments 56AYZ21
ST Microelectronics STM32F103VB 72 MHz 32-bit RISC ARM Cortex-M3

Hiding beneath the logic board, find a teensy switch that makes the mouse click its click.

It held in only by the board above, and is a welcome relief after wading through the rest of this tar pit.

As a common failure part for computer mice, it's nice that Apple used a fairly standard and easilysourced switch although its replacement will require dealing with all of that glue (and soldering in the replacement switch).

Turn our attention to the battery, which sits snug as a bug in its little plastic box, making it annoying to extract.

As it turns out, that's not the only thing holding it down there's a mess of glue to contend with as well. Removing the battery is even less fun than we feared.

The Magic Mouse 2's battery shares a common feature with the Apple TV Remote the Lightning connector is soldered to the battery cable.

This small accessory doesn't pack light that 3.67 V, 7.28 Wh, 1986 mAh li-ion cell holds about 9% more powerful than the one in the iPhone 6s

The Lightning port and battery can be replaced (as a single component), independent of the logic board if you can get the device open.

Replacing a malfunctioning switch requires prying through intense adhesive and soldering.

Excessive use of strong adhesive makes it very difficult to remove the rear panel, hindering access to every internal component.

Spirit treadmill - Spirit XT10 - How to calibrate the treadmill – Engineering mode – General servicing

XT10 Calibration
1. Remove tether cord. Press and hold the START and FAST buttons and put the tether cord back on. Display will go into a test mode then FACTORY SETTING will scroll across the screen. Press ENTER.
2. “POWER ON” will scroll across the screen. Use UP or DOWN buttons to change. (ON) Press ENTER.
3. “UNITS ENGLISH” will scroll across the screen. Use UP or DOWN buttons to change from English to Metric. Press ENTER.
4. “ADJUST WHEEL SIZE” will scroll across the screen. A number will be in the time window. Use UP or DOWN buttons to change. (2.50) Press ENTER.
5. “ADJUST MIN SPEED” will scroll across the screen. A number will be in the time window. Use UP or DOWN buttons to change. (0.5) Press ENTER.
6. “ADJUST MAX SPEED” will scroll across the screen. A number will be in the time window. Use UP or DOWN buttons to change. (12.0) Press ENTER.
7. “ADJUST MAX ELEVATION” will scroll across the screen. A number will be in the time window. Use UP or DOWN buttons to change. (15)
8. Press START. Unit will now auto-calibrate speed then incline. Unit will reset when it completes calibration.
Checking wire harness for continuity
Set your multimeter to read ohms.
Place the test leads at opposite ends of the wire, make sure both leads are on the same wire and are in contact with metal.
If the reading is close to 0 ohms, the wire has continuity (unbroken).
If the reading is very high or there is no reading at all, there is no continuity.
If there is no continuity, the harness needs to be replaced.
Speed sensor adjustment
Take off the motor hood.
The speed sensor is located on the frame, near where the drive belt goes around the front roller.
The sensor should be adjusted to about 1/16th of an inch from the front roller.

Checking treadmill circuit breaker

The circuit breaker is a small, red button between the power cord and the power switch.

Press the button in to reset.

Check roller for magnet

The front roller should have a round magnet and a round counter weight.

Take a screw or something metallic and test each one.

Only one should be magnetic.

Adjust Torque Boost

Using a small screw driver, turn the dial counter clockwise until it stops.

Press the START button on the console.

With someone standing on the walking belt, turn clockwise until the belt begins to move.

Increase the speed and check for smooth belt movement.

Replacing controller

Disconnect power cord from unit.

Remove motor hood.

Remove two Phillips screws holding in the controller.

Disconnect all wires connected to the controller.

Insert new controller, secure with Phillips screws.

Reconnect wires to controller. 

Replacing wire harness

Turn power switch off.

Unplug harness from console and controller.

Tie the end of the new harness to the old harness (with a zip-tie or spare wire).

As you pull the old harness out of the upright, you will pull the new harness in.

Connect to board and console, & turn power back on.

Replacing drive motor

Turn power switch off.

Disconnect red and black motor wires from controller.

Loosen tension bolt and remove four motor bolts.

Take off drive belt.
Insert new motor into place.
Put drive belt on.
Put in four motor bolts. Do not tighten them all the way down.
Tighten the tension bolt until you only have about an inch of play in the drive belt.
Tighten down the four motor bolts.

Plug the motor wires into the controller.

Replacing incline motor
Turn power switch off.
If possible, fold up unit.
Turn treadmill onto its side.
Disconnect motor wires from controller.
Remove bolt from incline tube.
Remove bolt from top of incline motor and take out motor.
Insert new motor and put in bolt on the top.
Reconnect motor wires to controller.
Turn on unit. The new motor should turn until it is at “zero”.
Insert bolt into incline tube.

XT 10 Engineering mode

1. Remove the tether cord.

2. Press and hold the START, ENTER, and STOP buttons and replaced the tether cord.

3. The display will say ENGINEERING MODE. Press ENTER.

4. Press the UP and DOWN buttons to scroll through the following sub menus:

Calibration

Factory Settings

Security

Functions

Display Test

Key Test

5. Press ENTER to access the desired program.

SONY STR-DN1010 – Updating the firmware - How to access test mode – How to initialize the AVR

TEST MODE
TUNER AM STEP CHANGE MODE
Either the 9 kHz step or 10 kHz step can be selected for the AM channel step.
Procedure:
1. Press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. Press the [INPUT SELECTOR - ]/[INPUT SELECTOR +] buttons to select the “AM TUNER”.
3. Press the [POWER] button to turn off the main power.
4. While pressing the [DISPLAY] button, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
5. Either the message “AM 9k Step” or “AM10k Step” appears, select the desired step.
6. After a few second, “AM 531 kHz” or “AM 530 kHz” appears, select the desire step.
SOUND FIELD CLEAR MODE
The preset sound field is cleared when this mode is activated.
Procedure:
1. While pressing the [MUSIC] button, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. The message “S.F. CLEAR” appears and initialization is performed.
INITIALIZE MODE
All preset contents are cleared when this mode is activated.
(a) SHIPMENT MODE
Procedure:
1. While pressing the [DISPLAY] and [A.F.D.] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. The message “CLEARING” appears and the memories are reset to the default values.
3. When done, the message “CLEARED !” appears, the set will power off.
(b) ALL CLEAR INITIALIZE
Procedure:
1. While pressing the [SPEAKERS] and [MUTING] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. The message “CLEARING” appears and the memories are reset to the default values.
3. When done, the message “BD” appears after “CLEARED !”.
(c) USER INITIALIZE
Procedure:
1. Hold the [POWER] for 5 seconds.
2. The message “CLEARING” appears on the display.
3. After a few seconds, “CLEARED !” appears.
FLUORESCENT INDICATOR TUBE DISPLAY TEST
All fluorescent segments are tested. When this test is activated, all segments turn on at the same time, then each segment turns on one after another.
Procedure:
While pressing the [MUTING] and [DISPLAY] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
1. ALL segments light on.
2. Press the [DISPLAY] control, confirm display.
3. Again Press the [DISPLAY] control, confirm display.
4. Press the [DISPLAY] control, all segments light off.
SWAP MODE
The signal will be swap to all channel so that all speaker will have sound output.
Procedure:
1. While pressing the [SPEAKERS] and [2CH/A.DIRECT] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. The message “SWAP MODE” appears (No change while displayed).
COMMAND MODE CHANGE MODE
The command mode of the remote-commander which this set receives can be changed.
Procedure:
1. While pressing the [MUTING] and [DIMMER] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. Either the message “C. MODE AV1” or “C. MODE AV2” appears. Select the desired mode.
PROTECTOR OFF MODE
This mode switching on/off the protector to investigate the cause of the protector.
Procedure:
1. While pressing the [INPUT MODE] and [A.F.D.] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. “PROT OFF” appears and switch off the set..
HISTORY MODE
The state that the set is used is memorized.
Procedure:
1. While pressing the [INPUT MODE] and [2CH/A.DIRECT] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the power and “HISTORY” is displayed.
2. Each time the [UP]/[DOWN] buttons on the remote commander is pressed, the item is switched.

SOFTWARE VERSION DISPLAY MODE

The software version is displayed.
Procedure:
1. While pressing the [INPUT MODE] and [MUSIC] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. The message “N1 ** M-.--” appears.
**: Destination
Each time the [DISPLAY] button is pressed, “F.Ver -.--”, “H.Ver -.--” and “S.Ver -.--NII” this order, and returns to the “N1 ** M-.--” displayed.

SPDIF UPDATE MODE (FIRMWARE UPDATE)Plays the CD that contains u-com/DSP data with CD/DVD player.
Update u-com/DSP etc. firmware from SPDIF input.

Procedure:
Normal case
1. While pressing [DIMMER] button, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. The messages “UPDATE” and “PLAY DISC” are displayed alternately every one second.
3. Connect CD player to TV OPTICAL IN jack (IC2004 on the DIGITAL board), and play update CD.
Update is started when DSP detect update signal. The message “UPDATING” is displayed blinks every one second.
4. While main u-com is being updated, fluorescent indicator tube is blacked out.
5. When update data error is detected or disc is not matched with target model, error messages “DISC ERROR” and “PLAY DISC” are displayed to restart playing valid CD.
When flash writing error is happened, error messages “UPDATE ERR” and “PLAY DISC” are displayed to restart playing CD.
6. When all update is finished, set is reboot automatically. After reboot, complete message “COMPLETE” is displayed (displayed continuously until any user operation).
Procedure:
After update is abnormal exit, and set is power on again
1. Enter update mode automatically after power on.
2. The messages “UPDATE” and “PLAY DISC” are displayed alternately every one second.
From this step, all user operation is prohibited. Power off is also prohibited.
If main u-com was failed to update, nothing is displayed.
3. Connect CD player to TV OPTICAL IN jack (IC2004 on the DIGITAL board), and play update CD.
Update is started when DSP detect update signal. From this, same as normal case.

SPDIF UPDATE CHECK
Function that checks hardware error for SPDIF update. This test takes about 15 seconds.
Procedure:
1. While pressing [DIMMER] and [2CH/A.DIRECT] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. The message “TESTING” is displayed and LED (MULTI CHANNEL DECODING indicator) is blinking.
3. When abnormality is not found, the message disappears and LED is light up.
4. Communication error between main microcomputer and DSP, the messages “UART” and “ERROR” are displayed and LED is blinking in fast speed.
Communication error between HDMI microcomputer and DSP, the messages “HDMI” and “ERROR” are displayed and LED is blinking in fast speed.
Communication error between Faraudja and DSP, the messages “VIDEO” and “ERROR” are displayed and LED is blinking in fast speed.
Unknown error, the messages “UNKNOWN” and “ERROR” are displayed and LED is blinking in fast speed.
5. To release from this mode, AC power cord pull out.