How to remove the battery
1. Park vehicle on a level surface, turn key switch to OFF, engage the parking brake and remove key from the key switch. Make sure that the vehicle battery charger is not connected to an electrical outlet.
2. Raise and support cargo bed to allow access to battery pack.
3. Remove hex nut from negative terminal on the left, rear battery that secures the negative cable from the vehicle controller, the wire harness ground conductor and the negative (black and white) conductors from the battery charger. Remove all of the conductors from the negative battery terminal.
4. Remove hex nut from the positive terminal on the right, rear battery that secures the positive cable to the vehicle main contactor and the positive (red) conductor from the battery charger. Remove the conductors from the positive battery terminal.
5. Make sure that disconnected conductors are positioned away from the battery terminals.
6. Service electrical system on the vehicle as required. Take care during repairs, however, to not allow tools or vehicle components to complete the battery circuit that was opened with the cable removal.
1. Negative cable to controller
2. Negative conductors from charger and harness
3. Left, rear battery
4. Positive cable to main contactor
5. Positive conductor from charger
6. Right, rear battery
Main contactor clicks, but vehicle will not operate.
Battery charge is low (check battery discharge indicator on dash).
Battery cables are loose, corroded or damaged.
Cable connection at main contactor is/are loose or corroded.
Cable connection at controller is/are loose or corroded.
Cable connection at traction motor is/are loose or corroded.
Traction motor is faulty (check status indicator light on dash or LED on controller for possible fault).
Controller is faulty (check status indicator light on dash or LED on controller for possible fault).
Nothing happens when key switch is turned to ON.
Battery charge is extremely low (check battery discharge indicator on dash).
Battery cables are loose, corroded or damaged.
Cable connection(s) at main contactor is/are loose or corroded.
10 ampere fuse to the key switch is loose or faulty.
Cable connection(s) at controller is/are loose or corroded.
425 ampere fuse on controller is loose or faulty.
Main contactor or circuit wiring is faulty (check status indicator light on dash or LED on controller for possible fault).
The key switch or circuit wiring is faulty.
Controller is faulty (check status indicator light on dash or LED on controller for possible fault).
Traction motor stops during operation
Battery charge is extremely low (check battery discharge indicator on dash).
Wiring to the traction motor components (e.g. main contactor, controller, traction motor) is loose, corroded or damaged.
Battery cables are loose, corroded or damaged.
Traction motor is overheated (check status indicator light on dash or LED on controller for possible fault).
Controller is overheated (check status indicator light on dash or LED on controller for possible fault).
Traction motor is faulty (check status indicator light on dash or LED on controller for possible fault).
Brake problem exists.
Vehicle runs slowly
The supervision speed limit switch is in the slow position.
Tire pressure is low.
The parking brake is improperly adjusted.
Brakes are worn or faulty.
Battery charge is extremely low.
Controller is overheated (check status indicator light on dash or LED on controller for possible fault).
Traction motor is overheated (check status indicator light on dash or LED on controller for possible fault).
Vehicle movement is erratic or jerky.
Accelerator pedal movement is dirty preventing smooth pedal operation.
Accelerator pedal is worn or faulty (check status indicator light on dash or LED on controller for possible fault).
A brake system problem exists.
A transaxle problem exists .
How to test the Key Switch
1. Park vehicle on a level surface, turn key switch to OFF, engage the parking brake and remove key from the key switch.
2. Make sure that vehicle battery charger IS NOT connected to electrical outlet. Open the battery circuit by disconnecting the conductors between the battery pack and vehicle components.
3. Raise hood to allow access to wire harness connections for switches mounted in dash.
4. Label and disconnect wire harness connectors from the key switch.
5. With the use of a multimeter (ohms setting), the key switch functions may be tested to determine whether continuity exists between the B1 and 3 terminals for each switch position. The key switch terminals are marked as shown in picture.
A. When the key switch is in the OFF position, no continuity (infinite ohms) should exist between switch terminals B1 and 3.
B. In the ON position, continuity (zero ohms) should exist between switch terminals B1 and 3.
6. Replace key switch if testing determines that the switch is faulty.
7. If key switch tests correctly and circuit problem still exists, check wire harness for possible problems.
8. After key switch testing is complete, connect wire harness connectors to the switch.
9. Connect the conductors between the battery pack and vehicle components
Fuses Block
The fuse block is located under the seat assembly. All fuse block fuses are rated at 80
VDC.
1. Fuse block
2. Passenger hand hold
The fuse location in the fuse block is shown in picture.
1. 10 Amp (front fuse)
2. 15 Amp (bed lift kit)
3. 30 Amp (horn kit)
4. Optional kit
The front 10 amp (80 VDC) fuse protects the power supply to the key switch and all switched circuits. The battery charge indicator is also protected by the front fuse.
The second fuse position is used to protect the optional cargo bed lift circuit. When equipped with the bed lift kit, a 15 amp fuse (80 VDC) will be in the fuse block. The third fuse position is used to protect the optional horn circuit. When equipped with the horn kit, a 30 amp (80 VDC) fuse will be in the fuse block. The fourth fuse position is used for other optional kits, if equipped. An additional fuse is attached to the controller.
1. Controller
2. Fuse (425 A)
3. Screw (2 used)
4. Lock washer (2 used)
5. Flat washer (2 used)
This fuse is rated at 425 amperes continuous and protects the 48VDC vehicle power supply circuit. If this fuse has failed, vehicle operation will not occur.
Traction Motor Stator Winding Testing
Use a multimeter to measure resistance (ohms) between motor terminals (U, V and W). There should be very low (not zero) resistance between pairs of terminals (U and V, V and W and U and W). Also, measure resistance between each terminal and the motor drive end bracket. There should be infinite resistance between each terminal and the drive end bracket.
If resistance between terminals is either very high or zero, the stator is damaged. The stator is also faulty if resistance between any terminal and the drive end bracket is not infinite. If stator is damaged, replacement of the traction motor is necessary.
1. Thermistor connector
2. Terminal U
3. Terminal V
4. Terminal W
5. Drive end bracket
6. Encoder
7. Armature tone ring
Thermistor (Thermally Sensitive Resistor) Testing
Use a multimeter to measure resistance (ohms) between the pins in the thermistor connector. The measured resistance at 77F (25 Degree C) (motor temperature)
should be approximately 600 ohms. If resistance testing determines a short circuit (low resistance) or an open circuit (infinite resistance), the thermistor or thermistor wiring is damaged and the motor must be replaced. The thermistor is an integral component of the traction motor stator.
Encoder (Speed Sensor) Testing
If encoder problems exist, the vehicle controller should determine that a problem exists and a fault code should be displayed on the controller LED and the status indicator light.
Controller
The controller is secured to the rear frame beneath the cargo box. The controller uses inputs from several vehicle components to accurately control vehicle speed, direction (forward and reverse) and regenerative braking. Controller inputs include key switch, direction selector switch (forward/reverse), accelerator pedal, supervision speed limit switch, traction motor thermistor (temperature), traction motor encoder (speed sensor) and battery charger lockout. A single wire harness connection and five (5) cables are used to connect the controller to the vehicle electrical system.
1. Controller
2. Controller LED
3. Wire harness connector
A fuse that is rated at 425 amperes continuous is attached to the controller and protects the 48VDC vehicle power supply circuit. If this fuse has failed, vehicle operation will not occur. Cable connections for the controller are as follows:
Terminal B-: Negative (-) battery cable from the left, rear battery
Terminal B+: Positive (+) cable from the main contactor post
Terminal M1:Cable to traction motor terminal W
Terminal M2:Cable to traction motor terminal V
Terminal M3:Cable to traction motor terminal U
1. Controller
2. Controller LED
3. B+ terminal (+ cable from main contactor)
4. B- terminal (- cable from left, rear battery)
5. Fuse (425 A)
6. M1 terminal (cable to motor terminal W)
7. M2 terminal (cable to motor terminal V)
8. M3 terminal (cable to motor terminal U)
Because of the solid state circuitry built into the controller, there is no method to test it directly (e.g. using a multimeter). A LED exists on the controller to identify normal operation or faults that will prevent the vehicle from operating correctly. The status indicator light on the dash panel should display the same information as the LED on the controller. See chart below for light pattern fault codes identified by the controller LED and status indicator light.
NOTE: If the controller LED and status indicator light are flashing, attempt to reset the controller by turning the key switch to OFF, waiting several seconds and then turning the switch to ON. If the controller LED and status indicator light continue flashing after the reset attempt, proceed with fault code identification and necessary action.
