JennAir - KitchenAid - Maytag and Whirlpool Microwave Ovens - Induction Cooktops Error codes and causes

JennAir - KitchenAid - Maytag and Whirlpool Microwave Ovens Error codes and causes - KitchenAid and Whirlpool Gas and Electric Ranges Error codes and causes – JennAir, KitchenAid, Maytag and Whirlpool Induction Cooktops Error codes and causes

Error codes cause and solution 

KitchenAid and Whirlpool Gas and Electric Ranges Error codes and causes

F0 E0

Default No Errors
F1 E0

User Interface (UI) Board Replace UI
F1 E1

User Interface (UI) Board Replace UI
F2 E0

Keypad Disconnected Check connections If necessary replace Keypad
F2 E1

Stuck Key/ Shorted Key Replace Keypad
F2 E2

Display/LED error Replace Display Board/LED
F3 E0

Main Oven Temperature Sensor Check for 1000‐1200Ω
F3 E1

Lower Oven Temperature Sensor Check for 1000‐1200Ω
F3 E2

Warming Drawer Temperature Sensor Check temp readout in Diagnostic Mode
F3 E4

Meat Probe Sensor/Jack Shorted Check both components for failure
F5 E0

Door Position/Door Latch Switch Check Oven Light ON/OFF – Check Door Latch for continuity/open
F5 E1

Door Latch not Operating Check Latch Switch/Latch Motor
F6 E6

Main Oven AM ‐ Lost Communication Check Main Oven AM connections
F6 E8

Microwave Oven AM ‐ Lost Communication Check Microwave Oven AM connections
F6 E9

Lower Oven AM ‐ Lost Communication Check Lower Oven AM connections
F8 E1

Cooling Fan Speed to slow Check Speed of Blower via Diagnostic Mode
F8 E2

Cooling Fan Speed to fast Check Speed of Blower via Diagnostic Mode
F9 E0

Unit mis‐wired at house supply Check supply wiring

JennAir – KitchenAid - Maytag and Whirlpool Microwave Ovens Error codes and causes

F2

Keyboard/User Interface

Check Keyboard/User Interface connections ‐ If OK, Replace component(s)
F2 E1

Touch Panel/User Interface

Replace Touch Panel/UI
F3

Cavity Temperature Sensor

Check Sensor connections, if good ‐ Replace Sensor. Problem persists‐replace Control Board.
F3C

Cavity Temperature Sensor

Check Sensor connections, if good ‐ Replace Sensor. Problem persists‐replace Control Board.
F3H

Humidity Sensor

Replace Humidity Sensor, plug MW in & wait 30‐40 seconds. Problem persists ‐ Replace Control Board.
F4 E4

Humidity Sensor

Replace Humidity Sensor, plug MW in & wait 90 seconds. Problem persists ‐ Replace Control Board.
F5

Boiler Temperature Sensor

Check Sensor connections ‐ Check for 70K‐130KΩ resistance
F6

Microwave Relay (4903) on Control Board

Check connections between Relay 4903 and Control Board. Replace Control Board
F8

Display Board memory communication

Verify error‐Replace UI/Control Board
F9

Relay control board communication error.

Check communication cable between relay and control board .if goog replace the relay board and relay control board
F13

WIDE (Appliance Manager‐UI) communication

Verify error‐Check connections between AM and UI boards ‐ Good connections, replace AM. Problem persists ‐ Replace UI.

JennAir, KitchenAid, Maytag and Whirlpool Induction Cooktops Error codes and causes

There are 3 types of failures associated with the Cooktop. The description of these failures and the impact they will have on the rest of the Cooktop are listed in the following.
Failure – Type 1
Failure type 1 comes from the power control board. This failure will affect only one burner. The user may continue to use the other burners.
Failure – Type 2
Failure type 2 usually comes from the power control board (there could be some exceptions). These failures affect all burners associated with that power control board; the user may continue to use the burners that belong to the other power control board.
Failure – Type 3
Failure type 3 comes from the User Interface. This failure disables the entire Cooktop. When this type of failure occurs, all the burners are switched Off by the User Interface.

F‐12

Coil under current Type 1

Check for 240 volts at connection T2A ‐ T2B or T3A ‐ T3B on thepower control board (whichever connection the burner is plugged into). If voltage is not correct, disconnect power and replace the power control board.
F‐21

Supply power frequency Type 2
Replace the power control board
F‐25

Stuck fan on power control board Type 2

Check that the cooling fan connector is firmly plugged in. Problem persists‐Replace the cooling fan
F‐36, F37

Temperature sensor is not working Type 1

Check that the temperature sensor is 1000 Ω at roomtemperature and is firmly plugged in. Problem persists‐replace the non‐working coil and the control board.
F‐40

Power control board failure Type 1 or Type 2
Check the cable between the User Interface and the power control board is good and properly connected. Problem persists‐ Replace the power control board.
F‐42

Power supply Type 2

Check for 240 volts AC at the main incoming power supply and check for an open fuse on the EMI filter board. Problem persists‐Replace the power control board.

F‐47

Power supply from power control board to User Interface is missing or WIDE communication error.
Check the continuity between L1 on the terminal block and both L1 terminals on between UI and power control board or an open fuse on the filter board Type 2 the EMI filter board. If there is not continuity on one or both of these lines, replace the thermofuse harness. Check the continuity of the fuses on the EMI board. If either of the fuses is blown, replace with a new one. Problem persists‐Change both control boards.

F‐56

Wrong or invalid UI configuration. Type 3

Reconfigure the cooktop following the directions in “Manual Configuration Mode.” Problem persists‐ Replace the User Interface.

F‐58

Wrong or invalid power control board configuration Type 2
Reconfigure the Cooktop following the directions in “Manual Configuration Mode.” Problem persists‐Replace the power control board.

F‐61

Power control board does not work

Check that the cables between the User Interface and the power control board are not damaged and are firmly plugged in. Check for 240 Volts AC at the J1 connector on the power control board. Reconnect power and confirm voltage reading. If voltage is not correct, disconnect power and have a qualified electrician check the home power supply. Problem persists‐Replace the cable between the User Interface and the power control board.

Brother Sewing machine - Troubleshooting – How to adjust the tension of motor belt and timing belt

Brother Sewing machine - TROUBLESHOOTING 

Machine skips stitches
1. Improper setting of the needle.
2. Bent or blunt needle.
3. Improper threading.
4. Improper combination of needle/ thread/fabric.
5. Stretch fabric is used.
6. Improper timing of the needle and rotary hook.
7. Improper height of the needle bar.
8. Improper clearance between the needle and rotary hook. Set the needle correctly.
Change the needle.
Reset threading correctly.
Select correct combination of needle/ thread/fabric.
Use stretch fabric needle.

Fabric does not feed
1. Stitch length is set at "0".
2. Improper height of feed dog.
3. Thick fabric.
4. Feed dog is worn out.
5. The feed dog is lowered.
Set proper stitch length.
Change the fabric.
Change the feed dog.
Raise the feed dog with the drop lever.
Fabric does not feed straight
1. Uneven pressure on right/left side of presser foot.
Change the presser foot and the feed dog.
Upper thread breaks at start
1. Improper threading.

Thread correctly.
Upper thread breaks during sewing
1. Bent or blunt needle.
2. Improper setting of needle.
3. Thread tension is too tight.
4. Thread is tangled.
5. Inferior needle eye.
6. Inferior needle slot of needle plate.
7. Inferior upper thread path.
8. Inferior thread.
9. Needle hits needle plate or outer rotary hook.
10. There are scratches on inner rotary hook.

Change the needle.
Set the needle correctly.
Adjust tension control dial correctly.
Thread correctly.
Change the needle.
Change the needle plate.
Clean or replace.
Check or change the thread.
Set the needle bar and outer rotary hook correctly.
Change inner rotary hook.

Upper threadbreaks during reverse sewing
1. Fabric is pulled excessively.
2. Improper use of reverse sewing button. Guide the fabric.
Push reverse sewing button as far as it will allow.
Lower thread breaks
1. Lower thread tension is too tight.
2. Too much thread is wound on bobbin.
3. Thread is tangled.
4. Bobbin does not turn in inner rotary hook.
5. Inferior thread.
Adjust the tension by loosening the tension spring screw on inner rotary hook.
Change to other bobbin or adjust bobbin winder.
Thread correctly.
Change the bobbin.
Check or change the thread.
Needle breaks

1. Touch pattern dial while needle is in the fabric.
2. Needle hits inner rotary hook.
3. Needle hits needle plate.
4. Bent or blunt needle.
5. Improper clearance between the needle and the outer rotary hook.
6. Machine feeds while needle is in the fabric.
7. Needle flows.
8. Fabric is pulled excessively.

Operate machine correctly.
Adjust the position of inner rotary hook stopper.
Make sure the correct needle is used.
Change needle.
Guide the fabric.
Noise

1. Play of worm/pattern cam gear.
2. Play of lower shaft.
3. Play of upper shaft.
4. Noise from rotary hook.
Adjust to proper gearing.
Adjust play of the lower shaft.
Adjust play of the upper shaft.
Clean the race of inner rotary hook and outer rotary hook or replace inner rotary hook.

Forward and reverse feedings differ
1. Improper adjustment of reverse sewing lever.
Improper length of buttonhole legs
1. Improper adjustment. Adjust screw.
Improper buttonhole size against button size
1. Improper adjustment of buttonhole length.
Adjust the length of buttonhole.
Unbalanced patterns
1. Stitch length dial is not set at ''SS''.
2. Feed dog is worn out.
3. Improper height of feed dog.
4. Improper attachment of feed dog.
5. Forward and reverse feedings differ.
6. Stitch width dial is not set to "5".
Operate machine correctly.
Change the feed dog.
Attach the feed dog correctly.
Operate machine correctly.
Needle hits needle plate when pattern selector dial is turned
1. Release volume is too big. Adjust the release volume.
Fabric gathers

1. Thread tension is too tight.
2. Blunt needle.
3. Improper combination of needle/ thread/fabric.
4. Improper threading.
Reduce the tension.
Change the needle.
Select correct combination of needle/ thread/fabric.
Reset threading correctly.
The stitch shown in the pattern indication window is different from the one being sewn
1. Release volume is too small.
2. The indicate gear and pattern indicator plate are not aligned correctly.
Adjust the release volume.
Adjust the pattern indicator.

The light does not turn on even after the power is turned on (B375, B376 and B377)
1. The voltage on both ends of connector SOURSE is not 120V or 230V AC when the AC cord is inserted.
2. The resistance on both ends of the power switch is not less than 1 W when the power is turned on.
3. The fuse is broken.
4. The light does not turn on. (The light may be damaged or deteriorating or it may have a bad connection.) Remove the light and measure the resistance on both ends. It should be less than 30 W.
5. The output from the transformer is incorrect. When connector CN1 is disconnected from the motor control unit and the power is turned on, the voltage between pins 1 and 2 of connector CN1 should be approximately 13 V AC.
Replace either the AC cord or the motor control unit.
Replace the motor control unit.
Replace the fuse or the motor control unit.
Replace the light.
Replace the motor control unit.
Replace the motor control unit.

The motor does not run. (B375, B376 and B377)
1. The pulley is turned too tightly.
2. The resistance between the two ends of motor connector MOTOR is not between 30 and 40 W (120V), 120 and 130 W (230V).
3. Inferior SS switch.
The resistance between pins 3 and 4 of the SS-VR PCB assy. connector should be less than 1 ohm  when the SS switch is turned on and infinity when the SS switch is turned off.
4. Inferior BT switch.
The resistance between pins 1 and 2 of connector CN3 (red) should be less than 1 Ohm when the BT switch is turned on and infinity  when the BT switch is turned off.
5. The resistance between pins 1 and 2 of the pin jack assembly on the PCB (F.C.) should not be less than 1 W when the foot controller is not inserted.
6. The fuse is broken.
Adjust the mechanism so that the pulley rotates easily.
Replace the motor.
Replace the SS-VR PCB assy..
Replace the BT switch.
Replace the motor control unit.
Replace the fuse or the motor control unit.
Replace the motor control unit.

The motor does not run smoothly or it does not run at a high speed. (B375, B376 and B377)
1. The pulley is sometimes easy or sometimes difficult to move when it is rotated by hand.
2. Accumulated lint or thread under the needle plate.
3. Improper tension in motor belt and timing belt.
4. Tight gearing of the pattern cam gear and worm gear.
5. The rotary shutter is dirty.
6. The motor control unit is installed incorrectly. It is loose or slanted.
7. The voltage between pins 2Å and 4 - on the SS-VR PCB does not stay between 0 and 5 V DC when the power is turned on and the speed adjustor is slid to the maximum.
Adjust the mechanism so that the pulley rotates easily.
Clean inner rotary hook, outer rotary hook and feed dog.
Clean the rotary shutter.
Install the motor control unit correctly.
Replace the SS-VR PCB unit.
Replace the motor control unit.

The speed at which the machine operates cannot be adjusted. (B375, B376 and B377)
1. The output from the transformer is incorrect. The voltage between pins 10 and 12 of the transformer should be approximately 12 V AC.
2. The voltage between the 5 V and GND on the motor control unit is incorrect. It should be 5+/- 0.25 V DC.
3. The voltage between pins 2+ and 4 - on the SS-VR PCB does not stay between 0 and 5 V DC when the power is turned on and the speed adjustor is slid to the maximum.
Replace the motor control unit.
Replace the motor control unit.
Replace the SS-VR PCB unit.
Replace the motor control unit.

The machine does not operate if the reverse sewing button is pressed or does not operate at a slow speed if the button is pressed while the machine is running. (However, the machine does not operate at slow speed when the foot controller is being used.) (B375, B376 and B377)
1. The BT switch does not work.
2. Inferior BT switch.
The resistance between pins 1 and 2 of connector CN3 (red) should be less than 1 Ohm when the BT switch is turned on and Infinity when the BT switch is turned off.
Check and adjust if necessary.
Replace the BT switch.
Replace the motor control unit.
ADJUSTMENT OF THE MOTOR BELT AND TIMING BELT TENSIONS
STANDARD
There should be 4 - 6 mm of slack on the motor belt and 3 - 4 mm of slack on the timing belt when the center of each belt is pushed with about 200 g pressure.
ADJUSTMENT
Timing belt
1. Loosen the screw on the tension pulley.
2. Adjust the tension pulley position.
3. Tighten the screw on the tension pulley.

Motor belt
1. Loosen the two motor holder screws.
2. Move the motor holder to adjust the belt slack.
3. Tighten the two motor holder screws.

Sony Handycam - DCR-SR42 - Disassembling - How to remove and Replace the Hard disk drive

Sony Handycam - DCR-SR42

Hard drive Replacement Procedure 

Remove the battery, and use the Phillips #00 precision screwdriver to then remove the three 3mm Phillips #00 screws under the battery. Wait 1 hour after removing the battery before continuing to disassemble the camera.

Remove the three 3mm #00 Phillips screws on the bottom of the camera.

Remove the three 3mm Phillips #00 screws on the side of the camera. Remove the 4mm Phillips #00 screw under the AV port cover.

Gently pull the black plastic hard drive cover away from the body of the camera. This will expose the hard drive. Even with all the screws removed, this part will require some force to remove.

Lift the hard drive out of the camera by grasping the grey rubber mounting brackets and pulling them upwards. The hard drive is attached to the flex cable. Remove the hard drive slowly to prevent the flex cable from being damaged.

Remove the rubber mounting brackets by pulling them off the hard drive.

Carefully unplug the flex cable from the hard drive.

Electrolux Frost free refrigerator DEF37 – Argentina - Troubleshooting - wiring and electrical schematic

Electrolux Frost free refrigerator DEF37/40/44 – Argentina 

Fine Adjustment of Freezer Compartment Temperature

This refrigerator was produced within international standards and has 4 temperature levels with factory preset values and can be adjusted (decrease or increase) according to your need. Case want to alter the values, there is the possibility of fine adjustment of temperature for the 4 temperature levels.

To program this function:

1. Press simultaneously the "DISARM ALARM" and "TEMP. FREEZER "until you hear one sound signal, then it will turn on the "MIN" indicator in the control panel.

2. Adjustment Options (within 5 seconds to program the Fine Adjustment):

To raise (warmer) 0.5 ° C at the preset temperature press the "DISCONNECT" key once ALARM".

Note: After the beep you will have 5 seconds to program Fine Adjustment. After This period will be issued a new sound signal indicating that the time of 5 seconds for adjustment was

Finalized.

To raise (warmer) 1.0 ° C at the preset temperature, press the "DISCONNECT" key twice ALARM"

To lower (colder) 0.5 ° C at the preset temperature, press the "TEMP. FREEZER ".

To lower (colder) 1.0 ° C at the preset temperature, press the "TEMP. FREEZER "

To verify which the last adjustment was made:

Press the "DISPLAY" keys simultaneously. ALARM "and" TEMP. FREEZER "until you hear a beep and will light the indication of the last adjustment made.  Since being accessed, the programmed Fine Temperature Adjustment is valid for the 4 levels of temperature.

Functioning

The DFF37 / 40/44 Frost Free Electronic refrigerators work under the gas compression cycle. The fluid is compressed in the alternative compressor, releases heat in the skin type condenser, suffers restriction in the capillary tube and absorbs heat in the finned tube evaporator. Return to the compressor through the suction line.  The cold air coming from the evaporator is forced by the motor-fan in the freezer and driven for the Refrigerator through a thermostatic damper.

The temperature control in the freezer is made by means of a temperature sensor (thermistor) located in this compartment, which according to the registered temperature, suffers variation in its electrical resistance, generating a voltage drop that is received by the main board.  The board, processing this information and according to the regulation of the product, connects or disconnects both the compressor as the motor-fan, according to the need or not of cooling.

The temperature control in the refrigerator compartment is made through the activation of the button regulation directly on a thermostatic Damper that allows total or restrictive passage of refrigerated air coming from the freezer.

When connecting the product to an outlet with adequate voltage (220V), a self-diagnosis of components is done and all the LEDs in the panel remain on for two seconds.

No abnormalities are detected, three more seconds will pass before the compressor and the motor fan enter in operation (the motor fan only works with the two door switches closed) running for five minutes regardless of temperature conditions. In those 3 The defrost heaters are activated for a test run.

If there is no temperature adjustment in the box, the product will work automatically regulated in the middle position (central position in the FREEZER TEMP indicator in the box).

Thaw

After some time of cooling, all moisture inserted in the product, coming from food or of the opening of doors, will be retained in the evaporator, freezing gradually. There is then the need to remove this ice from the surface of the evaporator, in a melting operation.

The product has a defrosting resistance added to the evaporator. There is also a resistance adhered to the drainage channel of the thaw, preventing some freezing at this point. The resistance

The evaporator and the channel are connected in parallel.

During the defrosting function, the compressor and fan will remain disconnected.

The activation of the resistors is done by the printed circuit board, with the control of defrosting monitored by the defrost sensor. There is a safety thermal fuse, positioned on the evaporator.

Obs: The thermal fuse acts only in case of failure in one of the other circuits, preventing the resistance of thawing hot too much. If the thermal fuse is activated, it will not be used.

Before the replacement of this component, the cause of the problem must be identified and corrected obligatorily

The product must never be connected without the thermal fuse being properly installed.

De-icing sensor registering a temperature equal to or above 12ºC when the refrigerator.

De-icing sensor registering a temperature lower than 12 ° C when the refrigerator is connected (in case of any lack of energy in which the product has not yet obtained temperature greater than 12º C in the freezer).  Accumulate 7 hours and 40 minutes, During continuous operation of the refrigerator.

Attention: Pre-cooling is the automatic operation of the compressor and the motor fan continuously for 20 minutes before defrosting be activated, super cooling the freezer to compensate for the heat generated during the thaw.

Compensation in case of lack of energy

In case of lack of energy, the product will behave according to the cases below, when the return of the Energy.

 De-icing sensor registering a temperature equal to or greater than 12ºC

 Thaw sensor registering temperature below 12ºC  The product will preserve the same regulation defined before the lack of energy. The thaw will be proceeded.

Testing Procedures

How to know if the plate is being energized

With the digital Tester measure the alternating voltage 220V between the points:

A - connector 70, on the pivots: 1 (brown) and 3 (blue)

Operation of compressor and fan motor

The electronic board connects the compressor and fan motor 5 seconds after the product has been connected to the plug. Check if there is alternating voltage 220V between the points:

B - connector 71, in the pivots: 1 (light blue) and 5 (black).

OBS: the motor-fan and the compressor operate simultaneously. The motor-fan is disconnected by the Door switch when opening any one of the doors.

Operation of the Lamps

The plate makes a direct connection between the power supply and the door switch, therefore, there is always alternating voltage 220V between points:

C - Connector 71, on the pivots: 1 (blue-light) and pivot 7 (brown).

When opening the door, with tension in these points, the corresponding lamp will light up.

Operation of the Resistances verified by the board

To verify if the resistances are being fed, measure the alternating voltage with the digital multimeter 220V in points:

D - connector 71, on the pivots: 1 (light blue) and pivot 3 (red).

Obs: - To carry out this test, the product must be in defrost, or in the forced de-icing function (sensor thaw in temperature lower than -5ºC).

How to measure the Resistances by the Plate

Unplug the product from the socket. Measure the resistance in the points with the digital multimeter:

E - connector 71 on the pivots: 1 (light blue) and 3 (red).

[Attention: for the verification of the resistances, you must disassemble the freezer compartment to measure directly the value of the resistors disconnecting their connectors, to prevent the parallel of the two may influence the outcome of the measures.]

How to Measure the Signal of the Sensors

With the Tester measure the DC voltage between the points:

F - connector 50, on pivots: 8 (white) and 9 (gray) - defrost sensor

G - connector 50, on pivots: 8 (white) and 10 (light blue) - temperature sensor.

Accompany the ohmic resistance and tension in the table on page 15 as a function of the temperature in the sensor.

Ex: for the temperature of 25ºC the ohmic resistance is 5000.00Ω and the voltage is 1.666V in current keep going.

Electrical Diagram (127V / 60Hz) (220V / 60Hz)

Electrical Diagram

Emergency Operation

When a sensor fails with the product functioning, the board has a security system, working the compressor and fan for 25 minutes and disconnecting them for 35 minutes continuously.

In this case, the high temperature indicator in the freezer (red) remains off - turning on, informing that the product has a fault, even if it is always working in this cycle of 25 minutes

connected and 35 minutes disconnected.

If the product is not connected to the socket or there is a lack of electrical power, the compressor and the Fan motor will be disconnected and will not reconnect. In this case, it will stay on / off in the control box or minimum temperature indicator (fault in the temperature sensor) or the indicator of medium temperature (fault in the defrost sensor).

Quick Freeze Function

By pressing the quick freeze button on the control panel, the compressor and the motor fan will work continuously for 2 hours and 30 minutes, or until the function is deactivated (via the button).  After the end of this function, the quick freeze indicator on the control panel turns off and the Temperature is controlled according to the regulation of the product.

When the fast freeze function is activated, the operating time of the compressor for De-icing is accumulated, even if this function is deactivated before its completion.

During the fast freeze function, the thaw (when the 7 hours and 40 minutes of compressor operation) is postponed. After the end of the fast freeze function the thaw then will be realized.

With the activation of the fast freeze function at the moment when the thaw is being performed, the indicator of this function will instantly light on the panel but the mechanical function will only will start after the thawing term.

Self-diagnosis function

When the refrigerator is plugged into the socket, the self-diagnosis function is activated by the main board for 2 seconds.

fixed on the back of the product.

If there is no fault in the sensors, after the self-diagnosis, the device starts operating  normal.

If the self-diagnosis finds a fault, it must be corrected. After the refrigerator should be reconnected, starting another self-diagnosis.

Characteristics of the Main Board

The main board receives the information generated by the sensors and controls the operation of the product to through relay actuation: one for the compressor and motor-fan; another for the resistances (from thaw and for the gutter). The board has a transformer to reduce the network voltage to 12V, and also diodes to transform the alternating current to continuous.

Also on this plate it is possible to test all the main elements of the electrical circuit: the sensors, the de-icing resistors, the fan, the operation of the door-opening lamps.

 Test Procedures by the Main Board.

Forced start function:

Pressing the test button on the main board once the compressor goes into operation immediately. A sound signal is activated by turning on the maximum temperature indicator. In this condition, the compressor works for 24 continuous hours, always with sound indicator.

Forced Defrosting

Product with temperature equal to or greater than -5 ° C (registered in the de-icing sensor)

Pressing the test button on the plate once, the compressor starts working immediately.  Pressing the test button one more time (2nd drive), the compressor is disconnected and in this one situation the defrost resistance will not be activated because the sensor indicates high temperature in the freezer, and the reading made by the board is of a voltage less than 3.076V in the defrost sensor. The product will then be 10 minutes on pause (compressor disconnected) and then afterwards it will enter normal functioning.

How to disassemble Sony playstation 4 - How to remove the case – How to remove the mother board

Sony Playstation 4 – How to disassemble Sony playstation 4 - How to remove the case – How to remove the mother board – How to remove the fan – How to remove the power supply 

PS 4 DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Slide off the drive cover

The hard drive has one screw that needs to come out then it slides right out. You'll need a PH 0 screwdriver for this step.

Using a pick or something similar, peel off the warranty stickers to reveal two black T9 security torx screws. Remove the two T9 security torx screws. This is the first major revision we find...there are only two screws that hold the plastics on. The previous models had four.

Removing the top cover will be easier if you follow these steps in order:

1) Grab underneath of the top cover near the power button.
2) Pull up...you will hear it click or snap as you pull up.
3) Move your hand over to the opposite side of the top cover and pull up here as well. 

4) After puling up both sides of the top cover it should now slide back and off of the PS4.
We now have our first view of the inside of the CUH 1200. The first thing we notice is that the motherboard is much, much smaller and the APU clamp has been completely redesigned. The inside of this model is completely different than previous models.

To remove the bottom cover you'll need to pull up very hard on each side of the cover near the back of the console. You may be able to pull just with your hands but you might also need to use some opening tools to pry it off. We get our first view of the components on the underside of the console. Looks like we have a redesigned power supply and optical drive.

After we remove the bottom plastic we see the physical eject button that Sony has decided to use. This is another significant change over the previous models. We're guessing this change is to help prevent the "random ejecting" of discs that plagued the previous models.

Remove the three T9 torx screws then the two phillips PH 0 long screws. Pull up on the left side (the side without the four wires), then on the right side. The right side of the power supply will be harder to pull up on so you'll need to pull firmly. After you get it loose you'll be able to pull it up a bit but it will still be connected by the four wire connector so don't pull it all the way out until that has been disconnected (shown in the next step).

You'll need to disconnect this four wire connector from the motherboard. The best way we've found is to use mini pliers. Pull up on one side then the other. Go back and fourth one side at a time until it pops off. The power supply can now be removed.

Use caution as this connector is easily pulled off the motherboard.

Using the same pliers grasp the WiFi antenna cable and pull up carefully The really wide optical drive cable has a black "collar" that needs to be lifted up on each side. This will free the cable. The other two cables can just be pulled right out of their respective sockets.

Remove the T9 security torx screw that secures the WiFi antenna. De-reoute the WiFi cable.

Remove small ribbon cable from optical drive. Remove five T9 security torx screws Remove two PH 0 phillips screws along with the green PCB board.

Even though the optical drive has been redesigned they still us the same roller system with the white bar in between. We're guessing that there will still be problems with these white bars falling out. The laser and carrier look very similar to the previous models.

Remove twelve T9 security torx screws Remove six PH 0 phillips screws Remove three PH 0 phillips screws Remove two PH 0 phillips screws Pull the top metal shield off of the console.

The first thing we notice (other than the size) about the motherboard is that Sony has totally re-designed the heat sink clamp. We're guessing (and hoping) this will reduce or eliminate the problem of PS4's turning on then back off.

Remove the two PH 0 phillips screws.

After the clamp is removed the spacer under it will also need to be removed. Remove the power button by prying up on the hook that's hooked into the motherboard.
After the hook is lifted the button will slide back and out.

As you lift up on the front of the motherboard you will notice that the fan is still plugged in. This can be removed by grasping the connector with a pair of small pliers. After that is removed the motherboard will lift out.

We can now see one of the huge differences between the older models and this new model...there's no RAM on one side of the motherboard! There is still the same amount of RAM but the total number of RAM chips has been cut in half. In other news, the HDMI port has finally been redesigned! This is great news as the old style is very prone to failure.

Remove three PH 0 phillips screws then remove the metal piece. With that gone there is only one screw (PH 0) holding the fan in. Remove it and you're done!

As we started assembling this PS4 we noticed this small piece laying in on the bottom metal sheet. As we reassembled the console we found that it went on the top of the motherboard where one of the long power supply screws goes it. There is a black plastic piece that will cover it.

Samsung Galaxy tab 3 lite – How to replace the LCD and Touch screen

Using a plastic opening tool, wedge in the seam between the screen and the case. Rock the tool by moving it towards and away from the middle of the screen, trying to separate the tape holding the screen and case together.
This is a long process, so don't try and rush it. Also, be careful about applying pressure.

After separating the tape holding the screen and case together, slowly start taking the screen off the case from the opposite side of the side with the buttons

Use a plastic opening tool to lift up the zero insertion force (ZIF) connector holding down the ribbon cable. Use the precision tweezers to gently pull the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.

Use the plastic opening tool to lift up the zero insertion force (ZIF) connector holding down the battery ribbon cable. Use the precision tweezers to remove the ribbon cable from the ZIF connector.

Use the plastic opening tool to lift up the zero insertion force (ZIF) connector holding down the battery ribbon cable. Use the precision tweezers to remove the ribbon cable from the ZIF connector.

Remove the seven 4mm Phillips J000 screws holding the motherboard in place.

Use the plastic opening tool and gently pry up the tab holding the motherboard in place.

Use the precision tweezers to remove the black plastic corner on top of the motherboard. Use the plastic opening tool to pull the motherboard off the case.

With the motherboard removed, continue by removing the battery Using the plastic opening tool, put it between one of the corners of the battery and the edge and gently pry it out

Battery is now removed. What is left is the entire LCD and Digitizer

Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 2000/2030 – How to clean the filter – How to replace the projector lamp

Epson 3 LCD projector - Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 2000/2030 – How to clean the filter – How to replace the projector lap – How to reset the lamp hour

Air Filter and Vent Maintenance

Cleaning the Air Filter and Vents
Clean the projector's air filter or vents if they get dusty, or if you see a message telling you to clean them.
1. Turn off the projector and unplug the power cord.

2. Gently remove the dust using a small vacuum designed for computers or a very soft brush (such as a paintbrush).

Note: You can remove the air filter so you can clean both sides of it. Do not rinse the air filter in water, or use any detergent or solvent to clean it.

Caution: Do not use canned air. The gases may leave a flammable residue or push dust and debris into the projector's optics or other sensitive areas.
3. If dust is difficult to remove or the air filter is damaged, replace the air filter.

Replacing the Air Filter
You need to replace the air filter in the following situations:
After cleaning the air filter, you see a message telling you to clean or replace it
The air filter is torn or damaged
You can replace the air filter while the projector is mounted to the ceiling or placed on a table.
1. Turn off the projector and unplug the power cord.

2. Carefully open the air filter cover.

3. Pull the air filter out of the projector.

4. Place the new air filter in the projector as shown and push gently until it clicks into place.

5. Close the air filter cover.

Projector Lamp Maintenance

Replacing the Lamp
Before you replace the lamp, let the projector cool down for at least one hour so the lamp will not be hot.
Warning: Let the lamp fully cool before replacing it to avoid injury.
You can replace the lamp while the projector is mounted to the ceiling, if necessary.
1. Turn off the projector and unplug the power cord.
2. Allow the projector lamp to cool down for at least one hour.
3. Use the screwdriver included with the replacement lamp to loosen the screw securing the lamp cover.

Warning: If the lamp is broken, glass fragments may be loose inside the lamp chamber. Be careful removing any broken glass to avoid injury. If the projector is installed on the ceiling, stand to the side of the lamp cover and not underneath it; pieces of glass could fall into your eyes or mouth when you open the lamp cover.

4. Slide the lamp cover out and lift it off.

5. Loosen the screws securing the lamp to the projector. The screws do not come all the way out.

6. Grasp the raised section of the lamp and gently pull the lamp out of the projector.

Note: The lamp in this product contain mercury. Please consult your state and local regulations regarding disposal or recycling. Do not put in the trash.

7. Gently insert the new lamp into the projector. If it does not fit easily, make sure it is facing the right way.

Caution: Do not touch any glass on the lamp assembly to avoid premature lamp failure.

9. Replace the lamp cover and tighten the screw to secure it.

Note: Be sure the lamp cover is securely installed or the lamp will not come on.

Reset the lamp timer to zero to keep track of the new lamp’s usage.

Resetting the Lamp Timer
You must reset the lamp timer after replacing the projector's lamp to clear the lamp replacement message and to keep track of lamp usage correctly.
Note: Do not reset the lamp timer if you have not replaced the lamp to avoid inaccurate lamp usage information.
1. Turn on the projector.
2. Press the Menu button.
3. Select the Reset menu and press Enter.

4. Select Reset Lamp Hours and press Enter.
You see a prompt asking if you want to reset the lamp hours.
5. Select Yes and press Enter.
6. Press Menu or Esc to exit the menus.